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no it wouldn't. you would be lucky to gain 1 or 2 bhp from that engine, although you may get better drivability.

yep cambelt driven, wouldn't worry about these fuel additives, save your cash. the car was designed to run without them! some fail well under 100k miles others run fine towards and passed 200k!

the dci 80 and dci 100 share the same injectors. its the dci 65 that's different Car looks good, lights worry me on them though, usually points to injector or high pressure pump

loads of info at www.cliodci.net basically engines are all the same, mk3 used a different fuel system which is a bit better but the Delphi stuff on the mk2 aint too bad in my experience so far! look out for a dci 100 if your looking to tune, 130bhp and 190lbft and they are pretty quick...

68's had the Jr5 box the same as the dci 100 later ones didn't have sunroofs (thankfully!) less to rattle and leak. didn't know about the intercoolers!

can you hear the turbo boosting? is it giving off excess smoke when your getting up the revs? I had one with a boost leak and it would start to pull about 1500rpm then drop off at 1800rpm and start giving off thick black smoke due to the lack of air. it was a boost pipe that had cracked around...

no point tuning it, better with the diesel for that. not a great engine the petrol. you could have it remapped and find out what bits are different with the 128bhp engine in yours and the 133bhp engine in the twingo as they are pretty much the same but with different outputs

my twingo got new stripes on the boot when it had a rear shunt, I think they come as a full set and it was £280 or there abouts lol

if its a sucking noise (sounds like the car taking a quick breath!) when you first press the accelerator then that's normal. if it continues to keep making a sucking noise then you have an air leak somewhere

imagine how much fun it would be trying to get that clean and running again! id give it a go! they are still holding that much money that id bet you could still make a profit on that if it cost you close to free and wasn't registered as a write off

ive had FK silverline X which I believe are just stainless version of the konigsport (still have koni dampers etc) and ive had Bilstein B14, and the bilsteins are better, but the FK's were bloddy good! I only used them on the road though so not sure about track

different spec, but if its your only option and your not fussed about them being different then normal 182 or 172 ones will fit

is it running full 172 widetrack so hubs and driveshafts etc? as the abs shouldn't be an issue unless the driveshafts are changed as the abs rings are part of these, I wasn't even aware they were different teeth wise? and I don't think the sensors are any different so even if it had 172 hubs it...

mid range torque is massively improved with the flat spot before 5k ironed out!

rear dampers

lol this was me in the trophy and my mate in my old flamer, just stumbled across this!

THIS. what is going on with this place recently. I only kept my 200 for 10 months, 15k miles but it was the best handling car ive ever owned out the box, no need to change anything. factory tyres (think it was conti 3's on it?) had bags of grip, wear rate was good and they wernt too expensive...

given its pearl black id be sticking that up for £150 and working down from there!!

A white one and either a blue or black one it was dark and it never got close enough for me to confirm :)

granted it was remapped but my DCI 100 pulled an R33 GTR with no engine up a hill like there was nothing there!