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Hubcentric has the lip on the spacer, making it like a hub.
There are 2 types. A normal hubcentric like above, or a bolt to hub type. A bolt to hub type has 4 (or 5 if you have 5 stud) holes that are normally threaded or have a champhered insert that bolts to the hub. These are supplied with...
Just remember if your wet sanding, not to get tramlines when holding the paper to the panel. Plenty of lube too, keep the paper wet. I prefer a trigger spray bottle to a bucket of water. Less mess and easily manageable. If you hear a scratching noise, ditch the paper and start a fresh one...
I've used the Por15 stuff. Very good and hard wearing, but there is a process to go through. It's not just slap some paint on. But it's worth it over the likes of hammerite.
And if it's your first time, look into a form of DA, not a rotary.
Will be less of a risk to burn through the paint with a DA (dual action/oscillating head). You'd have to be pushing down hard and on one area for a bit for it to do damage. A rotary will spin quickly in one motion and build up...
If you want a cheap wax that does a bit of both (depth and durability) you can't go wrong with Bilt Hamber double speed wax. Excellent wax for sub £20.
@IW365
I remember seeing a set on a BG years ago at a CSF show (CSS back then) and they looked rubbish. Really skinny and didn't look good I proportion to the car I thought.
I think it's more a visual thing as many don't like seeing lights on the dash. It certainly doesn't affect the way the car runs if it's showing up or not.