Search results

yes, as claimed.

Why are you yabbing on about 19 shafts? Do you ever say anything sensible, or isnt ripped striaght from the mouth of chris. I mean, i already know you stand about talking to his sis whilst he does all the work.

Pah, that is EXACT-f**king-ly what i said well over a year or 2 ago.

2.1 ltrs is actually only 2064cc and not worth anything but the highest spec racing engine where the extra ccs do count. Making a 1.8 a 2.0 isnt hard, but there is far more work to create crank clearance int he 1.8 block. Also the 1.8 block isnt as stiff, not that it matters really. I...

Air get is off all the time. The allen key tends to strip quite easily so count yourself lucky that it hasnt already. Dog leg spanner and allen bit in a short breaker bar works fine though.

NO MORE PAINT CHIPS!!!! YAY!

I would of so gone for the fezzy..........its light years ahead.

fitting something off one of the jap cars for a civic etc etc might be easier as they allow camber and castor adj. Just make sure your strut fit in the top mount.

It doesnt affect body roll, it jsut stiffens the shell around that area and creating less flexible pickup points and less geometry variation under cornering forces.

Very easy. If you even mildly mechanically minded you can see how it works within a few secs. Or do you need a breakdown?

The bottom rubber seals always corrode, under the bubbles is the alloy poweder corrosion crud....orrid looking.

Dont forget the toast and glass of milk!

pipe thickness? as in the thickness of the material. noise and thats it.

dont be so generous stan.

you have a turbo.........always.

yes its dangerous. But i dont see how its the bearing if it gets noisy, then goes quiet when you fiddle with it, then comes back.

deffo not 10P more a ltr........ for your bum dyno to actualyl fee any difference in high rpm power you would need over 5 wheel hp difference. And the fuel does not give you that sorry. Especially not on an F7P.

either 2.25" or 2.5"...........either way its fine.

Its a know problem. Its the top nut cup rubbing on the strut tower. The cure is to grind off a section of the strut tower and its done under warrenty.

you can change how your car drives by altering the suspension geometry. Its std practice when sorting the handling on a vehicle. But the only thing that you can adj on your car is the toe, camber and castor will need modifications to the suspension links to make then adjutable.

youll get bored with 120bhp after a week... Then youll look for something else to up the power.

car seems straight. the steering posision is their fault. Its set ot straight ahead then held inplace. Obvioulsy he didnt bother making it dead straight. i cant spot anything.

Sorry, forgot to mention you would most probs need to adapt a set off another car.

Your welcome to anything ive written on this forum.

never seen any

Like paddy says, its all about correct info input. Its a glorified calculator, and there is nothing that can go wrong. Its more than accurate enough since math cant be fumbled around with (unless you put in silly data). The use of an accelerometer chip just means it knows how many Gs you pull...

Dont worry about it GR, its totally normal. So long as the level is above min when cold its fine.

He means keep an eye, or rather ear on the noise. IF it gets louder and whines its your wheel bearing and needs to be replaced. About 100-120 quid.

200CFM! go and calculate how much your engine uses in CFM on its own.

worth it? HELL YEA! im not saying dont at all! All im saying is that perception is warped as load of motors have been about for donkeys years and everythings been done to death, so people tend to think its easy. Look at it this way. On a totally std vaux C20XE (redtop) 2ltr....TBs alone...