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Always thought the Milteks were a little dreary. Sounds more like a stereotypical corsa with a "big bore" on it. Yozza systems on the other hand, I <3 rasp.

Didn't understand much of that, but it sounds like you have engine mount issues. If you've replaced the dog bone already, the other significant mounts are the top engine mount on the left of the engine bay, and the gearbox mount which sits under the battery.

Rear quarter panel repairs quite often write cars off. To get behind them to bash them out is a ball ache, and paying out for some one to weld a new panel in is very very costly.

Makes the advert more appealing to women. and gays.

On a serious note, it's best to look into wheel and tyres combinations carefully. The wheels and tyres can ruin the way a car drives. All the best sorting it out. On a slightly less serious note:

Spanner? I might be thinking of track rod ends...

You say that as though you'd be driving it on the road?

Do you mean the exhaust bangs on the rear axle? Because that'll be the exhaust mounts that are at fault. If it's the exhaust manifold banging on the subframe, then it's the engine mounts.

It may well "look" ok, but the rubber is underneath and will be shagged

Engine mounts will be the problem

There's legislation governing the position of fog lights, in relation to the head lights. I was speaking to a traffic officer about it. Fog lights have to be set outside the vertical of the headlights, where as driving lights are in between the headlights.

Me I suppose. Jamie is also east mids rep, which helps as he's based further over that way. I'll have a word with him and sort something out shortly.

:(

Errr.... you read the sticker?

I've already said what you need to do. You can't go polishing after 1200 grit, expecting them to come clear. You've still got really deep scratches in there. You need to use finer paper to reduce the size of the deep scratches, then you can polish. Do exactly exactly as I've said and they will...

As the first step, yes. You'll need finer paper to get the lights shiney again.

Right. Get a bucket of water, some 1200 wet and dry, 2000 wet and dry, and then the next one up from that. Can't remember whether it's 2500 or 3000. Start with the 1200, that'll be the roughest paper you'll use. You want to use plenty of water, otherwise the dust is going to cause deeper...

You used 600 grit?! You'll be there for a while trying to get those scratches out!

Mark fish does the lowering springs that are specific to the trophy. Every other place under the sun does lowering springs.

They are different, and it has sachs dampers. You can put any lowering springs on them, but the ones from mark fish are matched to the damping rates of the trophy suspension

LOL We'll get something sorted shortly ;) Thanking you for those pictures again BTW, good job some one had a good camera that night!

Erm, I walked away so that was a good thing! Went to my third physio appointment on wednesday. My back's never been right since, about once a month it'll go, and I can't walk for pain.

Crash you say? There wasn't a lot of leg room for me!

You won't get KW's to fit cup hubs. Not without drilling out the bolt spacing. Something that I'd like to do, but as Dan @ 519 has pointed out to me, try claiming under warranty when they've been butchered to fit.

Currently I've got Gaz. All 4 dampers are leaking oil, and the handling is shocking. I'll be going for something new in a few weeks hopefully.

It does start going past 5K you're right, but it's nothing to do with the valve timing. Have a search about it and you'll see how many other people make that mistake.

There's not a lot of power that low down in the rev range, so I doubt you can feel the VVT change.

I struggle to notice the VVT kicking in at the best of times. Never seen any difference between 95 and 97 or 99 ron tbh.

Mine are gaz, and they ain't plastic?

Chances are it's the exhaust.