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By monday i will have 3....pretty good yeah! i gotta stop, im so sick of being out of money, but hten again, i wouldnt wanna do anything else. Ill sell ya my whole clio RT in a while when its finished. Top spec will inc 190HBP on nitro, and 140 without! i might get some arrows con rods and a...

CORRECT A MUNDO!!! underbody flow is very important, bt ride hight isnt the key to a lower pressure zone below it. Basically, i got my letter into CCC magazine explaining the McClaren F1 underdody aerodynamics. Anyway, the less air flowing under the car, the lower the atmospheric pressure...

Good to hear from ya mate!! I got a 1600cc X/flow in it, and its such a mint car (no rust anywhere...and i mean anywhere!!!!) The carpets are spotless, the seats are a bit darker than normal, but no rips nothing. 3 set of pepperpots that come with it...the lot....all for 600 quid! Anyway, i...

oooer how bad, just the bumper lights? or is the front cross member gone? I did the front of my clio in a while ago, well a lady did, she lost i round the corner and hit my parked car!

never been a ral fan of magnex, but its a sweet deal, i juts think tht their too tame. Anyway, have you stripped you willy out or something, cause never heard of a superlite?

anybody know much about the cam in block, pushrod kent X-flow engine. I have bought a MK1 Xr2 and its mint. I just want to get a bit more power out of the engine....but its an old heavy inefficient engine, anybody know anybody who can help, or provide me with parts?

i can really tell fromthe only front end pic, but are you missing a grille?

True, boundary layers are a b*****d, and thats why F1 inlet ports are machined with a golf ball dimple effect to create a turbulance layer, to stop flowing air sticking to the port sides and depositing fuel on the walls. Anyway, i think we got a bit muddled up, on a sallon, the air will flow...

when i start my new job, ill be relying on the people here to help me with R&D and market orientation, so hopefully, what people want, is what people will get.

yeah, i just work at the same company as my dad, so hes retiring soon, so i can hopefully get a higher position before he leaves, saying that, development manager is great.

i know nobod thinks i write it myself, but thats ok. I have been around cars since i was born, and my dad has run several race teams, i race, i have met many drivers and mechanics......read sh*t loads about all sorts of theories and pricipals. SO basically, my mind is a walking note book of...

ah, you see, aerodynamics dont really come into play until ablove 70mph. And the hatch back design is one that is effectively more aerodynamic than the tradytional saloon style design, which is why volvo entered its estate car in BTCC first, but it was too heavy. The air comming off a hatch back...

wow, look so sweet, and the deep dish stops it looking ridiculous, and i see you got rid of the naff corner splitters.

35 quid for the clutch kit inc all thrust bearings etc. ANyway, if you do it yourself, itll take a day. Jack the car up, take off the bonnet, unplug everything, disconnect the gearlink, disconnect the driveshafts (make sure you have a new pin to put in the right side driveshaft where it connects...

i got Pi -55...no probs with scrubing

well, yeah, that was one of those super ally ones which basically create a whole sh*t load of drag, not downforce.

look under the left side of the bumper, the exhaust is there, and a replacement one will not need cutouts....itll just poke out

there proper jap style, slash cut 4" exhausts, and top quality, but on the cheap..... you can get them to put it onto your existing exhaust system from the cat back for not much.

a road spoiler wil not do anything, period....except for the things you see on porsches and McClarens etc. So dont bother.

i just negotiated with topgear to do a 10% discount to cliosport.net members. The have some really good new jap stylee back boxes which their powerflow fitting facilities can fit for you. The are top quality too, apexi/HKS/DC sports standards were talking...tig welded too!

i dont have rear discs, but im glad ou took my advice on the setup. But if the pads fit, then there ok i would of guessed.

im gonna test the viper for renault in HK this summer, so i will tell you guys if ya wanna wait. But the hillpower one aint sealed so you only get the cold air at speed, you could seal it yourself with a little bit of fibreglass and a days work......

i got them on the group n discs, really good. just buy em, but your running the 1.4 caliper right, i got the 16V calipers on mine.

oops, just my spelling, string aint even meant to be there and think after torsionbar is meant to be thin....oh well......im your regular dumbass...but teh lovable type "align=absmiddle>

the real problem though it the rears....most of us will be experienceing heavy understreer in fast corners because the rear torsionbar is too think and doesnt provide string enought spring effect. Well, and teh rear is usually too low aswell. The secret is to load up the rear suspension as much...

wha?

yeah, i used that to fill in a tiny little recess nect to my light, did the job, and if you take your time working slowly, it looks just as good as a professional job.

anybody got, gonna try or heard of the multipower*6 leads, there meant to be the best, but expensive.

how long do yours last, since i was talking to a tyre guy and he said that they last not long, and are really soft, which i can believe. But i should be buying some yokohama A032Rs or A038s to use when its dry!

what size and at what psi do you use? I usually run on 32 for when i want performance, and 28 when the bumps start getting to me.