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I have the milltek but frankly the ideal system for me would be the BTB with the milltek tailpipes :D

I like the looks of the milltek and their customer service but the rs192 seems to have a better flow(the rear section has straighter bends as I could figure out looking at some pics).

it should be as I can't remember 2 milltek systems available for the 182. I got mine from k-tec and was pleased with the price. no snapped welds either :D

try to lube the thing and see if it helps

I intend to go with motul the next service and if the problem persists maybe I'll go back to elf. maybe the elf left in the engine combined with the new oil and changed it's properties a bit. I know someone who experienced the same problem in a 197 and after continuing servicving with motul the...

did you changed the oil recently? meaning swapping from let's say ELF to motul? I did this the last oil change and it drank a liter of 300v power in 5k miles (when running elf I went 6k miles without oil consumption issues)

as above. yozza aren't too big (see milltek for example) and for their known quality who gives a s*** anyway? :D

^no help with this as I have new k-tec mounts all round (inc dogbobe poly) and made no diff

I'm also having the "crunch" but only when nailing it, was thinking it's the same cause as the idle revin' issue, meaning the clutch doesn't engage properly and coupled with higher rpm's you get the crunch even without the syncro's being damaged (well at least I hope tehy aren't) the release...

any other opinions? didn't get to the bottom of this yet :(

mine bites half way down, it did so even before I changed the clutch to a Helix gr N unit. What could be the problem? maybe a bent clutch fork? also when engaging the clutch with the engine on, car standing still, in 1st gear and revin' it past 5000rpm it pulls ahead a bit and then smells like...

I'm having this too. I hoped that changing the clutch will solve the problem but hell no.. the noise comes from inside the box, right where the fork rests on the release bearing causing friction and noise. When installed the new clutch last october the guy who did the job copper greased the fork...

and something strange: revin' it at idle the intake noise is quiet, unlike this one (this even has the caf routed down the grille!): so, longer caf, but louder? how come?

got my CDA the other day and wanted to ask for opinions regarding the CAF setup some pics: upper view caf ends here (I chopped a bit at the end to sit better) -used the aluminum caf provided in the kit as you see it goes near the headlight behind the grille. another angle: and it sounds like...

I was thinking RS tuner, but am I going to need a custom map? (can they sort one for me?) I'm only having a BMC CDA, milltek exhaust and want to match the inlets and a decat before the map. So am I going to need a custom map for these mods or a generic one will do fine? thx!

useful info here, and a video showing stuff too http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/Bed-in

If you can't source the washers I'll take some pics for you to make an idea of their size

you have to get the washers, otherwise the bushes are prone to snap. contact the sellers or make some custom ones

I am running ITG panel at the moment too, but after the CDA I'll do the mathched inlets plus a remap and hope to see gains from these mods. (milltek cat back on aswell)

so we all should run CDA's with no caf's? I thought the general opinion was that it runs better with a caf, many said they felt improvement with the caf fitted. will make some test runs when the moment arrives with/without a caf

colder than the air in the engine bay, not by much though, as the car is on the move mostly but if the caf is short and the air drawn in a little cooler then what's the harm?

if going to get the caf near the headlight behind the grille, it will only be like 10-12 cm of tube I imagine, just a little help to get near the colder air in front. maybe in the future will leave the box with no caf, if I'll manage to make some heat shields. or leave it like above and wrap the...

they had good reviews around here so far, and can't remember anyone complaining about excessive wear rate as with the toyo's

this is the space for the air to come into the caf, it's not that much, but when on the move I'd imagine there won't be any lack of air: the caf from the CDA is 70 mm, so it won't be that squeezed like the 76 mm one in the pics. I'm also thinking to place some heat insulation between the upper...

went outside and took some pics. removed the airbox and placed a 76 mm caf just to see how it fits. this is the the place the caf ends, and the red arrows point to the nearby air sources: again the spot where the caf ends, and the OE airbox bracket which will be removed: view from above...

have you got any pics with the mods to the exhaust? thx!

I'm on a milltek for a year now and no problem so far. People who had problems got their replacement parts no problem at all. Milltek guys are spot on as far as I know. But if I had to go with a new exhaust right now I'd probably go with the yozza which everyone praises, or with the scorpion...

Hi, I'll get the CDA myself in a few days, and for now I'll keep the standard elbow, and thought I could squeeze a short caf to the front grilee near the headlight, as in the pic bellow. Has anyone tried it? I don't think it will draw in hot air once the car on the move. the other option is...

any more pics with your current caf setup?

maybe the simota sounds a bit loud but I'd still go for the maxogen. you may loose power with the simota