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Search the number of "helping each other out" posts/threads I have made in this section, young'un. Then use the search function to read through all the threads on exactly the same subject that appear just below yours. Then, if your questions have not been answered at least 17 times, you can call...
You can't have searched very far as Menzerna appears in most of my threads and posts...
On a Clio, IP3.02 and 85 will finish it down nicely. Only use the Intensive Polish if you really need it.
Pads wise, it's personal preferance. The 3M yellow and blue pads would be my choice. Failing that...
I can recommend the search button?
The Meg's system is basic. It depends on your budget and whether you are a Halfords shopper or willing to get in to detailing and buy the best, more expensive products online.
A cleaner or a protector for trim? All purpose cleaner to clean, there are a...
I do t think it's s**t. It just takes longer. I like the fact you can leave it on wheels then blast off the dried gel. For a wheels off detail, it's great as you can get on with the body work or arches.
However, it is slower as stated, so for bodywork it makes sense to choose iron-x over it.
My answer will be to sell the car.
But on a serious note, Brian, I would just change to a bucket of water and ONR, or Optimum No Rinse, as a lot of detailers do when there is no water source available, such as at shows.
800 is far too coarse, but at least you followed it up through the grades. Looks good. Tad dull in areas but nothing another quick rotary treatment won't fix.
Same with C2, straight out of the bottle, no need to dilute. Beading last on mine for 3 months, sheeting for longer, had I not removed it for some Vics.
It is a popular product for Bikers, agreed. Mainly because it comes in an aerosol form as well, so it's easier to get into spokes etc. I would therefore agree that a spray product would be the best, unless you have the time and patience to do each spoke as above (Prime, followed by IPA wipe...