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Nankang NS2-R in 120 soft compound (dry) and Uniroyal Rainsport 3 (wet) are the best two budget options if you can stretch to 2 sets, If not probably Michelin pilot sport 3s. as they can still be used in the winter time on the road.

Scuttle shake and Bulkhead flex are the main weak points on the na chassis running a fixed hardtop helps but if you're staying soft top you should consider some of these, Moss europe use to stock them but i can't find them listed any more. http://www.bossfrog.biz/Miata_Performance.html

you have to make the effort to show repairs are being undertaken other wise the VI can refuse to inspect it,

Anything's possible, but would be illegal

top choice, saw that myself

I don't know if he's still going but reno man at the top of toft green, or travel a few miles for one of the specialists on here

if you wanted something a bit trick and really lightweight run a couple of laptop fans ducting the warm air from area around the manifold primaries

who's doing it dan?

I would try putting the system into service mode and then back into active, you will need a decent diagnostic computer to do this, the garage might be able to do this,

You are polite dan i'll give you that, He won't be use to it being in Leeds, I would have started with ''whats up knob head?'' and took it from there, Anyway back to the noise, jack it up and spin the wheel or if possible jack both sides up and start it up and put it in second, just make sure...

I find it smoothes thing out with the coppers if you start with a few '' haven't you got any proper crims to catch'' comments, They love that one :car: _ _ _ _ _ _ :policecar: _ _ _ _ _

Guessing it's N/S/F as that hub has been off once or twice, With all the trouble on that corner have you considered Reliant?

Should of told him Allah is your wing man (death to infidels etc) you would of got away with it on religious grounds

Did you get done for that exhaust? is it clutch pedal dependant this noise dan or can you just hear it better with the engine not revving do you think?

Possibly if you're passengers Bulimic

air gap should be 1mm ideally, the 5v reference down is only part of the battle dan you also need the signal back to modulator valve/abs ecu, Does any one on here have the wiring diagram for the abs loom so we can test the continuity of the wire back to the ecu? who's the resident sparky guru?

If you are the only driver you can drop them 20mm simply by removing the seat back and forth rails I'm 5' 8'' and want to be sat lower so if you're taller they will need dropping, if it comes to it I'll just knock up some custom subframes like a copy of the extra low cobras that are no longer...

Mine with omp subframes fit nicely but will be modifying the subframes to lower them an inch or two, Quality is miles better than the price would suggest,

being a civil servant with almost part time hours I'm home now, so when ever you like.

No problem Dan, Did you check the resistance of the sensor?

That's dedication Dan, Spoiler does look mint!

don't worry dan mine is running perfectly so i have free time to work yours out:smile:

I can only say what Toyota abs sensors test at which is 1.6kohm in between teeth and should dip to around 800ohm when on the tooth, check how many teeth yours has, should be this below, worth a try for an hours work...

i wouldn't of thought so, did you look into the brake pedal sensor code dan?

Track Torque at tockwith http://www.tracktorque.co.uk/contact.php

turbo passing oil?

This was in the Coys auction, The only thing I wanted from the show

''First to see will'' have their retinas burnt out you would have to view on a dull overcast day to avoid permanent damage.

the throw of the stick with the scenic set-up is the same as standard so you won't rush the syncro's any more than a clio set-up, it wouldn't take much to knock up a piece of stainless tube as the lift reverse over the stick if you like shiny things.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coolant-Block-Heater-Engine-Pre-Heater-Hotstart-ATO-ONE-220-240-VAC-/231157916341 This is your best option