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ELF Tranself NFX I think it's called now.

For a road car i'd be ok with every 2 years. With track use I do every year.

AKI i think they use, which is RON+MON/2 Was the equivalent to our 95 over here, but their quality is hit and miss.

I might do that when I take mine off again. Usually use 4.8mm X 9mm peel rivets. M6 or M8 rivnuts?

Always thought there was a bit of a lip preventing it from coming out/going in.

Yeah, driver's rear sensor. Not too bad of a job but it's a hub off job. You'll have to get the sensor from Autodoc, unless you want to pay Ktec prices. Driver's rear has a female plug, passenger rear is male plug, so easy to see if you have the correct one.

All the same really.

https://www.kamracing.co.uk/grams-oe-rear-disc-spacer-renault-clio-mk2-rs-172-rs-182.html

Red Line oil if you can get it or a high quality GL4 spec oil, not GL5.

During the recent MOT, the driver's side braided brake line burst on the brake efficiency test! They're Goodridge lines which have been on the car since i've owned it, so they must be 12+ years old. The rubber sleeve over the crimp looks to have been hiding some damage, otherwise i'd have...

There's videos on Youtube of a guy showing how to do key coding with Renolink.

Behind the steering wheel, not too difficult. Just have to be careful with it, as if it's not broken it soon could be if you start messing 😅

Yeah that is weird, mine doesn't do that. It's possible it could be a steering angle sensor fault for you.

Possibly, although i can't see that explaining why it only happens from a certain speed for me.

I have the same SERV and Traction lights come on, but only when steady cruising at 60+mph on the motorway 😂 The code for mine every time is brake pedal sensor/switch, which i've changed and even got it set up so that the slightest touch of the pedal brings the brake lights on. Not sure what...

Yeah definitely missing. Not majorly important. It's either an M8 or M10 flanged head bolt you need.

Could just be from moisture built up over the years. The leads have a rubber seal around the top, check the condition of them.

Apart from looking old and rusty (check the HT leads as water could be getting in), they all look to be firing ok except the left one. The earth strap and electrode are rusty and the insulator is gunked up. I'd change them.

Careful not to bend them.

I would have a look for SKF or NTN/SNR then.

@The Crumb Master will know a guy surely.

What are the brand options? SKF would be my choice if available.

Yeah

You bought it then mate. Still looks tidy from when i last saw it.

Ahh right, that's what it reminded me of from my SGS one too.

Looks like Euro air line fitting.

As Darren says, you've probably got more chance of plaiting fog. Is yours damaged?

I run Redline PS fluid in mine and it seems to be a bit more resistant to boiling.

Test the alternator and battery.

Aye, briefly yeah. Was very clean.