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Porting is easy to do yourself tbh. I used a Dremel carbide tool. Took a little while but almost doubled the size of the port, so I'm confident the boost spike isn't down to that. Definitely a good call getting it done prior to fitting though. It's properly tight in there once it's installed...

If I remember correctly you have the 2860 rep? Mine has the larger 71 exducer so is a little later spinning up. Starts making boost about 2800rpm and hitting full boost by 3800rpm ish.......comes in hard too

How are you controlling your boost and did you use the actuator that came with the turbo, out of curiousity? The actuator provided on mine needed superman levels of strength to move and I'd have guessed it set was around 20psi at least, hence why I went to an adjustable one. Porting the...

There's no leaks.... Been through the system several times now. It's a Kinugawa adjustable actuator which I've used before on my previous Focus RS, and worked really well. The more I look at the system, the more I'm thinking the spring in the actuator is just too soft. I've ordered a 7.5psi...

The arm is the bent type rather than straight which gives much more room when fitting the actuator. I operated the actuator with a pump prior to fitting and all seems ok to be fair 🤔

Actuator pressure is maybe 3 psi on a spring that should be closer to 5psi. I started at actuator only pressure and increased boost via the MBC which did raise the boost but no matter what I do with the MBC, it always settles on about 6psi with the only thing raising is the spike. After fitting...

Forgot to say it's currently spiking to 9 - 10psi before dropping to 6psi (ish) Here's pics of the wastegate port before and after porting: Here's the wastegate actuator I bought with the quoted (white) spring pressures:

So, I've been trying to set the boost on my 172 turbo, but I can't get it to stop spiking. I've tried two types of manual boost controller (ball & spring Dawes and Atomic bleed type but each resulted in the same spike and inability to make and hold peak boost. If I increase the boost through...

Remade your downpipe, or rejigged the mounts?

I asked him this question, and he said its a full map, not a base map prior to full mapping, so is fully usable if you stick the the criteria. However, as I'm running a gt28 turbo, he's strongly advised I get it upto him for some mapping tweaks.

Sorted. I managed to move the middle hanger closer to the cat. It's not designed to go where I've put it, but it seems to work. Given me about 8mm clearance

Update: New Bosch lambda fitted. Idle is much improved at cold and hesitation has been reduced, but still there. Waiting on Chris @EFI to get back to me for to boom her in. Whilst I was underneath, I've spotted a minor oil leak. Cannot see where its coming from, but could be either sump...

As above! I've got the middle and rear exhaust mounts holding the exhaust as high as I can, but the the goose neck on the cat where it joins to the turbo down pipe is millimetres off the subframe, and so is bouncing off it. Engine and gearbox mounts are new. Anyone experienced this or can...

https://efi-parts.co.uk/product/clio-172-182-rs-turbo-ecu-kit/

Yeah, so EFI provide the turbo flash to the ECU as well as FI MAP and piggy back module. The car can be run on the flash, but as Chris at EFI has said, it'll be better to have the flash tweaked to the car. Also, the map is designed for a gt25 turbo.....im running a gt28 as I couldn't lay my...

That gives me hope! Lol

I'm hoping do too! Will see later on.....thats if I can get the rust welded originals out. The downstream 02 doesn't appear to do anything at all. The EFI blurb does say the post cat 02 can be removed, so I'm assuming it's been turned off via the turbo ecu flash. If that's the case I'll just...

Looks like it's oscillating nicely between 80 and 800 mV

225 injectors, MAP, turbo etc are a first time fitting/conversion. Will change the lambdas and see whats what. Then maybe have a clio bonfire.....🤣

I'm gonna change the lambdas and see what's what, but ultimately running it upto EFI for map fettling will resolve the issues. Will keep the post updated!

It's got me scratching my head tbh. I got Bosch lambdas for a good price and looking at the originals, they look like they've been on the car since forever so I'd have changed them anyway. MAP is new and supplied by EFI for FI application Air temp sensor was changed for a gen Renault item as...

The car has actually been in use....I bought a second engine which I fitted shortly after the original popped, so its only been off the road for a few weeks while I did the engine swap. That said, I will check the harness connection as you suggest. Tick all the boxes and all that good stuff 👌...

Screws in from the top, just right of the oil filter by the looks. One out, one in....job done

🤣🤣 Made a few of those expensive mistakes! 😳😀.....just not that particular one lol. But yeah, the prices aren't cheap!

Yep, looks like the oil level sender. Renault part No. 7700421391

So, I've been running the car the last two days and much like Steve's car, the idle isn't ideal but does get better once its up to temp, and runs nicely past 2k rpm. I'm 99.9% I got the timing on the nose tbh. All gen Renault tools were used and did many, many rotations and cam position checks...

Yep. They're the same 172/182/197/200

Got a TB coming from a clio 200, and two new Bosch lambdas coming from Autodoc. Oddly the rear lambda wasn't reading at all, though I am wondering if the EFI map has deleted it. Dies say in the blurb that post cat O2 csn be removed 🤷‍♂️ I cleared the codes, and the only one that comes back is...

@SteveC_1879 Diagnostics results make interesting reading. So that looks like both lambda and throttle body issues, as thought. I did record some lambda live streaming too: