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Don't go out your way mate if it's difficult to get to! Do I need to block it just at the top, or also at the bottom where it enters the canister?
Sure I'll figure it out anyways. I'll just block it all :)
Yeah someone else has said this too now haha. I thought just removing all tubing going to it would stop it. Weird how it only started ticking again late on today. Tempted to just remove it completely and wire in a resistor to the connector!
The sun was shining today so tackled the job of lowering my drivers seat a little as it's like i'm sat on top of the car.
Removed the nuts, the exposed ones putting up more of a fight than the others.
Seems stupid how they're just open to the elements? I wire brushed the seat studs anyway and...
There's a yellow fine/notice on the other side too which could have been for towing to be fair.
They left the window down too, just asking for something to go in and press the lock/unlock button.
I'd make sure that it does have the correct ABS rings fitted though as this can give similar symptoms to the sensor being down.
If your cruise control works, then it's not an ABS sensor that's down.
Does having the EML have any negative effects on the car? I've just always felt when the EML is off, it runs smoother, less stuttering when setting off etc. I had a dodgy cat on my 1.2 aswell, and used to regularly turn off the EML, but I could always feel when it was about to come back on again...
I had my belts dephaser and water pump done all at the same time. Glad of it as my water pump was leaking onto the sub frame and had obviously been doing so for a while as it was rusting.
These sort of things can be 13 years old so need changing.
Is it the same as on a few other cars where if one switch is broken, the other one doesnt work either?
Have you got a power probe or know someone with one? Could put power direct to the motor unless that's broken too. Try a multimeter on it.