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Bet you haven't been into the workshop and asked a Renault tech to have a little look [emoji102] in his tool box . Bound to be one in there [emoji1303]
What with track Db triggers becoming ever so tight now and being pinged by throttle bodies induction noise , I'll keep my RS2 thanks .
With regards to not enough plenum volume @NorthloopCup , you prob know more about that than I do as I have your old one [emoji12]. It suits me for now [emoji1303]
First things first , are you using the air con ?
This will help in clearing the screen .
2nd : there is a possibility that it could be the water that is generated from the air con and is not draining from the box . Reason I say this is because you say it stinks [emoji40], stagnant water from...
I stripped my throttle body right down , took out the flap and removed the shaft , there is a seal on both ends , I doubt that will allow air to be passed .
I used wet and dry very fine paper with the oil and rotated the shaft where it would locate in the body , doing this removes any crap and...
I am using HLT Grand Prix edition with a Wifi dongle .
Prior to that I used a Bluetooth dongle with a jailbroken 4s phone and it was the same , no info out of it at all except battery volts.
I will look into it further at some point but don't have time ATM .
Doesn't work well on my Ph1
Considering an RSTuner gets all the info out of the ECU - this doesn't seem to work for me coupled with HLT.
And I don't want to spend any more on an app that's not going to function because my cars OBD is not supported.
I think these really only work well on PH2...
I agree , turbo comes with its own set of issues . If your not a mechanic , it can get costly keeping it tip top.
Low boost kits are available from engine dynamics .
That looks absolutely shocking . Looks like a shopping trolley bar , re-worked with side skirts that bolt to the OE seatbelt moveable point .
That wouldn't hold s**t in an accident imo
The Heater box is secured with 2 bolts which are covered by the heater blower motor . The motor needs removing first along with the wipers and then it'll all come out so you can sort the issue you have .
I would use a cup heater blower as its smaller and easier to fix if it needs a motor later...
The sole purpose of the conversion for me was that I wanted rid of the pump , so in my mind, when I would be out on track I wouldn't have to worry about the pump shitting itself and ruining my engine .
As said before - ditch it.
With regard to wanting to run epas and retain the air con ...
I was in the same predicament.
I was running a PMS a/c delete kit and contemplated getting the idler wheel to replace the pump wheel. It worked out to be £100. So with that in mind , I sourced a cup bracket and alternator , and sold my PMS bracket and so it cost me nowt really , just removal...
I take it the standard setup is still in place and standard aux belt setup still ?
I run a cup bracket setup and no pump at all . That's the best way poss imo.
Steering rack bungs in and looped along the body
Pins 26 and 56 are fault finding diag lines from ECU to OBD plug . So i'd say try and hunt for something that communicates first on those wires before spending any money.