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Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He
Are you sure your not confusing it with his power steering reservoir??
The weight of my bonnet with all the inner skin removed is 5.2kg. I weighed the bonnet hinges and the guts I'd removed and seem to remember it being around the 4-5kg region.
I would therefore estimate a standard bonnet to be in the region of 8-9kg mate.
You can cut plenty out of the internal skin of the door, but that combined with the window winder mech will save you around 3-4kg's off the standard doors. You ideally want to remove the side impact protection bars for maximum weight saving. That's a job I've got left to do on mine.
Ok, so, this is the weights for glass removed from my 172 cup.
Front door glass: 3.5kg each.
Rear qtr glass: 3.5kg each.
Rear heated screen: 7.5kg.
Front polycarb: 2kg each.
Rear qtr polycarb: 1.5kg each.
Rear screen polycarb: 3kg.
If your interested in the de-skinned bonnet weight let...
Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He
If the Clio goes tits up lap the ring/spa in the BMW mate!!! It will be near enough as fast, if not faster! Lol!!
Re: Namakubi Clio 172 Cup "track project"
It works out around 50-60% weight saving. 2 front polycarbs weigh the equivalent of one piece of front glass. I weighed everything on mine when it was removed.
I've got the weights written down at home for the glass vs polycarbs.
Re: Namakubi Clio 172 Cup "track project"
It works out around 50-60% weight saving. 2 front polycarbs weigh the equivalent of one piece of front glass. I weighed everything on mine when it was removed.
I've got the weights written down at home for the glass vs polycarbs.
I have all the weights of the glass vs polycarb windows written down at home. I'll dig them out and post them up.
I can also weigh my standard bonnet with the internal strengthening removed if your interested? I took a good few kilos out by doing that. Sure, it flaps around a bit, but it's...
It's a shame your not a bit closer to me, otherwise I'd have done your geometry mate, as I have all the kit including corner weight scales for if you really wanted to get involved! Lol!
1.5-2.0 degrees negative camber won't shred the tyres massively mate. Keep it near 1.5 degrees and the tyres...
Just watched this video Jay/Tony! Excellent bit of racecraft!
Fair play for keeping your cool after the integra incident Tony! I definitely wouldn't have! Lol
Yes I'd recommend those settings for fast road mate. You'll need all your geometry checking and adjusting if your fitting all new components as well. They do make enough of a difference to knock it out.
You can get 50kgs out from removing the standard seats!! Obviously you need bucket seats so your gonna put some weight back in but only about 10-15kgs max!
No mate it's not a stupid question! It comes down to what suspension setup your running. I run kw v2's and they have a mechanism to allow camber adjustment, some have a slotted top hole that allows the hub to be pulled out/pushed in for camber adjustment and finally there's the standard...
It sounded like it was more wheel contact from where we were stood tbh. Went with a good old bang as well!!
Ah yes, the long suffering other half! Lol! She's a good un really, and never said a word whilst travelling at over 165 in my other car! Lol! She just sat there eating the chicken nuggets...
We saw the impact you suffered on the way down to craners! Very impressive driving from both of you guys! Made spectating very good fun having all the clios to support!
The compensator has a arm on it, but it's not connected to anything. The arm on the compensator is held in the up position by a spring that attaches to the chassis. This keeps the compensator in the closed position, but when the brake pedal is pressed, the arm deflects downwards to reduce the...
Yes that's it mate. Closed = full effort to the rear brakes.
You could replace it, but i would've thought you'd be better off replacing it with a new Renault one tbh.
There should be a spring that goes into a hole in the chassis and on to the arm of the compensator to keep it in the up position. It makes sure it returns back to that position then all the time. As mark123 is saying, it should move downwards with the brakes applied to reduce the pressure to the...
Its all personal preference really, but this is what i'd chose for my own car.
For the camber you want about 1.5-2.0 degrees negative on the front for fast road use. At the rear you need shims to adjust the camber and the toe, so you'll not be bothering with that.
For the tracking you...
It's all about the angle of the seat back rest. On bucket seats they have to installed with the back rest nigh on vertical, or that's what all the gumpf said when I bought my pole position recaros. You have a small window of tolerance of a few degrees reclined, but that's your lot.
Also if the...