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Another option: Buy a M3.

No point imo.

172s and 182s have quite a few parts in common. When it comes to these i prefer 1*2s.

Stretch your budget to a set of (2nd hand) Bilstein/H&R coilovers.

Impressive.

Freshly refurbed? If not, changing to non cup fitment will be much cheaper.

Or change hubs and shafts and go for Konis. Will still be cheaper than a new set of Sachs stuff ;)

BTW: Is your car cup-packed (suspension wise)?

Awesome driving. woul probably s**t my pants with this loose arse.

Here? http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?672774-Steering-wheel-re-trim-%28snappy%29

Eibachs and Konis (the yellow ones). New track rods and ends, balljoints, wishbone bushes, arb bushes and top mounts.

Correct.

http://www.tyretraders.com/tyreInformation|ItemID|UNI19550R1582VRSPT2.html Take these, not the Nankang crap. Proper tyres for a decent price. They're 195/50s though which doesn't matter really (195/50s are often cheaper than 185/55s). Will fit your wheels fine.

TDC sensor.

I do think they'll lower the front as they seem to have a lower height than OEM mounts (looking at various pictures).

You'll need different brackets.

Before (in Dover waiting for the ferry): After: ;)

Correct. 12mm for 1*2s and 10mm for non-sports.

Yes. 30mm max on standard shocks.

1) yes 2) no, would be better to put the 205s on the front though

Front camber around -2° and 6 minutes of toe out. Is the camber adjustable on your car/coilovers? Right side got a bit more (0.5°). Setup looks fine though.

Standard on all 182s is 205 but 195s are fine aswell.

Upload your sheet! It'll be fine though as you can only adjust toe and camber (with coilovers). Both cars are FWD and the MK3 Clio won't run silly amounts of toe or camber from factory.

RSTuner with ABS/ESP module and job done. Visiting your nearest dealer is another option.

You can get them from Cobra directly afaik. The offer they made me was quite pricey though.

Sweet!

Are you sure that it's a hall-effect-based sensor? It has only two wires so i'd assume it's a regular inductive sensor.

R888s work best with a fair amount of negative camber. Around 3 degrees on the front will be fine. Toe settings are pretty driver dependent. I'd start with a few minutes toe out and see how it works.

Faulty tb or pedal would trigger the electronic fault light. Coilpack and leads fine? Had the same symptoms on my 1.poo but with electronic fault light on and it was a faulty loom connection (main engine loom to ECU).

Hit the spanner with a hammer.