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a lot of places will rig it up and check it for free, only charging you if it needs adjusting
where abouts are you? Protyre are very good but they're largely only in the South of the country (about £25 to adjust)
if it's only slight, chances are it's normal as cars with sensitive front ends (like the RS Clio!) will follow the camber of the road, which is to the nearside for drainage
it sounds like master cylinder failure but you may as well go through and do the cheap jobs (like changing the fluid) first, to see if it isn't one of those
i do my own and think they're very straightforward to service (other than the belts and whatnot) - i'd go by the schedule in the service booklet (don't just change the fluids/filters - the inspection service is just as important). there are a few things which aren't in the Renault schedule...
:o!
something i've wondered - do you have a unit off Badminton Road? i'm one of the local posties at the mo ('career break..') and thought i'd spotted your company name on something once. if i said "mushrooms", would that make any sense?!
i think there was a minor conflab about the R8 thing originally. think it was suggested that it's a Norma chassis, possibly powered by a M3 engine
anyway, that's proper motorsport that is
there's a universal joint under the steering rack boot described. if you can't find someone who can give you a firm diagnosis (not over the internet!), you're going to be best off starting with the cheap possibilities - ARB bushes, track rod ends, etc, before moving on to the more expensive stuff
you lose the adjustment as you screw the piston back into the caliper to make room for the new pads/discs, although they should automatically re-adjust once you've used the pedal
if it is the top mounts/spring cups, you can improve things by renewing the mounts and/or fitting the washer 'fix'. mine's still noisy after having done both though.
impossible to be sure without hearing it, but the problem (with the top mounts/spring cups) is so common that it's a fair bet that's what it is. it's not really a problem - just an irritation
beechy - if you're fitting additional, auxilliary lamps, just fit them as per the manufacturer's instructions - find a feed wire, relay/s, etc.
i can't see the point in uprating the bulbs in the fog lamps (and there's no cap infront of the bulb for the fogs in mine). you only need turn them on...
i was interested to know if the CV joints are secured to the end of the driveshaft by a circlip/whatever, or if they're built on and cannot be removed post-production but, not having had a look myself, haven't been able to confirm
the only way of getting a new boot over a CV that can't be...
it's the lamp units that would (ideally) need replacing as the lens pattern is the difference in driving/fog lamps. it's complicated with the Clio as the lamps are oval and the lenses slant, to fit the lines of the front valance. i keep meaning to have look for suitable units, but they're...
it's pointless wiring the fogs to come on as you flash as you'll obviously have your (useless) fog lights on together with full beam. what you want to do is replace the fog lamps with driving lamps and then rewire it. you could probably do it at the stalk, which would be neater
personally, i'd just buy a set of Bendix pads from GSF/ECP. the Renault pads are Bendix; you'll be buying the same pad for less - just without the Renault branding
it seems a little confusing but, if Flux have arranged everything, you've been paying them and they've been responsible for seeing the insurer right, surely they're liable?
i'd call Flux and speak with a manager. you'll not be able to complain to any governing body until you've exhausted your...
that's interesting, as i've renewed the top mount in mine for an ECP sourced mount and the buffers fill the shoulders, whereas some on here seem to complain that theirs don't (whilst appreciating that the buffers wear)
i've definitely heard elsewhere that the Kangoo mounts are supposedly...
thanks for the offer; part of my problem is that i'm not sure which engine's which. a quick Google suggests that the DCi 4x4 code is 'FC0V' - but, again, no idea if that's the 'right' engine/configuration
is this from a parts CD? are you able to cut&paste the corresponding illustrations?