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lol http://www.originalcookware.co.uk/kitchen-craft-cooks-blowtorch-with-chrome-fittings.ir?cName=food-preparation-blowtorches&src=froogle

lambda. i wondered about running it first to heat up the exhaust, but i've cut the wires now :)

halfway through removing mine. it won't run properly with it connected, will it run reasonably well now that i've cut the wire or it will fubar the cat

funny you say that, i've just posted a thread in clio discussion asking what you lot use when you advise to heat something or, as you so eloquently put it, give it the burger king treatment

butane or propane, or of no significance? and how do you know when it's done, just heat until it glows red?

butane torch? propane torch? this sort of thing: linky and would you use it in a confined space, ie under a car on axle stands?

lucky boy, usually it's hassle to get it passed after failing on brake efficiency. the computerised mot system should tell the tester about the rear brakes. when the garage showed me their mot paperwork it had some comments about the rear brakes and load sensor.

i've managed to crack the nut with a 22mm spanner and 3/8 ratchet on the end of the spanner, but now it's cracked it's getting even tougher to turn, even if i swap the ratchet out for a breaker bar! it is left hand down to remove isn't it?

gsf do the bosch one which is what renault use, £55 + vat

the emissions light has been on since i got it and it gave high idle emissions at recent mot so i'm going to pick up a lambda sensor this afternoon. but strange that it happened in between changing racks. it was alright when i changed from pas to manual!!

take the W out the front of the link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RENAULT-CLIO-FRONT-LAMBDA-SENSOR-2-0-172-182-197-00-08-/110553142233?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&%20%20hash=item19bd7b13d9

the only thing i've done since it last worked fine is changed the manual steering rack back out for the pas one and fitted a new aux belt. when i bled the pas i didn't have the filter in the reservoir bottle and the air in the system quickly emptied the reservoir all over that corner of the...

hi, i finally have a running problem, to go with my steering problem :) most of the time it gets to around 3500rpm and it won't go any further. it doesn't bounce off a limiter, it just bogs down and stops accelerating. sometimes i can get passed it by coming off the throttle a bit and then...

Called head office instead. At least I feel like I'll see some action now. EDIT still haven't had a call back from mr five minutes

yeah i guessed they would have exchanged it already. just spoke to them and their area manager is in so he's gone off to speak to the area manager and will call me back in five minutes. that was ten minutes ago and counting. ho hum. another call at 1230 me thinks

garage are making the right sounds- "mechanic will face disciplinary action" "no problems with the refund" etc, but still no action, no word on changing the caliper back over or when the refund will be done so i'm about to call them. no answers = i'll be calling their head office and dealing...

power steering rack back in now i need to go and get one of them leaky sensors

power steering rack back in :)

1. with the pump of the car, should the pulley rotate with no friction like the alternator, or will there be a little friction? 2. should there be an o ring where the hi pressure pipe fits into the hole on the pump? 3. can you get rebuild kits, or not worth the effort? thanks, kris

started squealing this morning, presume it just needs a re-tighten?

anyone? with the rack off the car i can lift the whole rack just by holding the tie rod, and it doesn't move in it's socket

not too sure on that. got my dci rack up and running today and it feels just as heavy as broken pas

just been outside too and mine is about 3.5 as well. the rack should be fine, it's a rebuilt one, and i could turn it when it was out of the car just using my hand on the shaft (fnarr fnarr) it needs tracking, but i've driven cars with tracking out before and it doesn't generally make the...

1.6 would be even worse, the more turns lock to lock the easier the steering should be

yeah, 1.5 dci i got mine from. book figure is 2.75 turns, but anything over half a turn of the wheel to either side and its like the power steerings broken. i'm actually concerned about the pressure i'm putting on the universal joint

i fitted the manual rack but it's horrible. it feels more like a car with broken power steering than a car with a manual rack.

yes, before i'm called weak, i've had manual racks in the past (205 GTI) but now the steering feels more like broken power steering than a manual rack. is this right? would manual racks of yore have had more turns lock to lock? rather than the 2.75 i have now.

i replaced both tie rods about four months ago. one moves fairly freely with no play, one is so tight that if i use a spanner to turn the bar itself, it undoes the joint at the steering rack. so, defo no play, but very very stiff. good or bad?

fine advice. i would put it in writing anyway, even if they agree to your demands. a letter has much more oomph in court (if it goes that far) than a telephone conversation! and if they agree to your demands and change their mind, you've got your letter saying "with reference to our telephone...

Yeah the driver side just slides in and out sent from my android phone using tapatalk