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Indeed will complement the MacPros that are on order aswell perfectly.

Shame they did not know there was alreay a product called Aquawax out there! Should be intresting though as an off the shelf solution/product.

All will still look good, individual waxes won't make the same amount of differnce in looks as they will on darker colours. I use AG SRP, EGP topped with P21s, Megs #16 or Optimum Car wax on my Silver 306.

For looks on Blue (unless you have a silver cup lol) on a budget of 20 odd quid - P21s or Chemical Guys 50/50 For durability - Meguiars #16 If your budget is double the P21s or 50/50 - Swissvax Onyx

Use with care but see how it brings up a panel. Just be carefull on the edges etc.

My 182 one has Cabbasse on it - 4 x 40 Watts, they where also options in the Sound and Didgi packs aswell though I think.

That's the one. Shampoos - whichever one your prefer. You may need to use the Paint Renovator before the SRP depending on the paint condition.

Got it on order at work, glad to hear it looks good.

The only wax you could swap it with is the Megs Stage 3 stuff in Halfords. May add a little in looks over the EGP, but may not. AG SRP and 2 coats of EGP will look good as it is.

SRP, EGP and the Ultra Deep Shine will not all work togther. You can either do SRP and EGP or SRP and UDS. The EGP will not bond over the UDS, and UDS after the EGP will remove the EGP. Use the Paint Renovator with care it can be fairly harsh and induce smaller finer marks while removing...

Most Decorating/DIY places should have them. Just a paint brush with a long handle

The 16 gives a clearer look, the Nattys Blue a wetter glossier look. Worth remembering - The waxes dont add much to the look, most of the shine and gloss comes from the polishing stage.

You could use the SRP, then add an additional stage of applying a glaze. Problem with that is any sealant that goes after most glazes will not bond, so for looks you will compomise durability. A wash then a one step polish/ wax product will never give you the best looks or durabilty compared to...

Clay only removes bonded on above the surface defects. Won't touch swirls, scratches or any below the surface defects. The Megs one will be fine. Polishing is the only way to remove swirls. The SRP will go someway to sort mild ones by removing and covering them up with the fillers it contains...

Poorboys Nattys Wax? Looks ok, wont last longer 30 days or so max, not in the Collinite/Megs 16 League. Same with the Poorboys EX and EX-p Selants, they won't come close in the durability stakes to the Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection.

Long lasting wax, best options are one of the Collinites or Megs 16. Worth using a sealant after the Super Resin if you want long lasting - Autoglym Extra Gloss which can give 3 plus months protection without being topped with wax. AG SRP, Extra Gloss x 2 and them some 16 or Collinite will...

One Sir will do Kully ;)

It is acid based so if you must use it watering it down is not a bad plan. If the wheels on your car are nice and glossy you may find it dulls the finish of them and you will need to repolish them after. Best of using an acid free cleaner on them IMO, Megauirs All Purpose Cleaner or Autoglym...

Usefull thread re Engine Cleaning http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=192320

Radiator brushes are ideal as they have a long reach handle on them. Put some insulation tape round the metal bit of the brush to stop any chance of it scratching.

Weekly wash and maybe treat to a spritz of quick detail spray. Top up the wax once a month or so.

Working by hand: Autoglym Super Resin and Extra Gloss Protection and then top with a decent Carnuba wax. Klasse All In One, Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Sealant and a nice Carnuba Wax. Good well priced waxes, P21s or Chemical Guys 50/50. Looking to spend a bit more, Zymol Carbon, Swissvax...

Another good site with a decent range of Swissvax stuff on http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/

Most won't do it if the paint has cracked, or will take the dent out but advise it will still need painting after/ warn the paint will crack more taking it out.

I have heard bad things about Highway on this forum and over on Peugeot forums used with past cars for a number of years now. Greenlight where very usefull when I was younger not quite as competitive the last few years.

Dee's (Deedee on here) Monaco Blue is phase 1, was shocked when we viewed it as it had a private plate when I found out it was one of the first ones due to it's condition. http://www.richtreen.co.uk/images/dee172/

Factory Sealant is quicker to use, can be used wipe on and wipe off a panel at a time if you like rather than the whole car, allowed to cure then removed with the EGP. For me the EGP looks better, both the CG M-seal and Factory Sealant look washed out and grey, rather than rich and deep on...

Great for topping up wax already on a car and maintaining the finish in a quick and easy way, never a stand alone replacement though.

Clean and Shiny stock a fair bit of CG stuff now if you get desperate.

You can add as may coats as you want one after another but you will not get the same effects as allowing each one to set up for 12 to 24 hours. Thin coats are the key, 3 layers seemd to be optimum for looks, any additional layers did not seem to add to the looks for me. Anything you remove wipe...