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No idea mate, I just do them up finger tight then 1/2 a turn with a ratchet.
If you start the car up and it idles at 4,000 rpm, you’ve got a leak!
And don’t forget to make sure you don’t crush the plug leads. That’s another favourite.
The last two Clio’s I‘ve bought, some absolute pellet has done this and rammed some wanky random bolt in there ruining the threads. It’s infuriating. It’s the simplest of tasks to remove and refit one of these bolts but the ham fisted “diy mechanics” can’t seem to grasp it.
That is all fixable and if you do it yourself, will cost you peanuts.
I’d advise you to buy either a scrap car or some scrap panels and practice your welding.
Do plenty of reading.
Then go for it.
£100-ish I’d imagine.
Liquid yellow is a nause to paint and expensive.
Cheapest way would be to find someone having a liquid yellow car painted and try to get your strut brace done at the same time. Will save you loads.
Standard OZ F1’s are 15x7 aren’t they? And they fit 195/50/15’s on them lovely. Which are A cheaper tyre than 205/50/15’s.
That alone would (and does!) persuade me to have 7 inch wide wheels.
My wets (Uniroyals) are £180 fitted for 4.
Under the glovebox is the UCH.
Remove the wiring plug and put it back on. Do that 10-15 times minimum.
They get damp and play havoc with internal electrics.
Tow of my mates run it on their track cars. 172 and an MX5. No idea why.
But They’ve never had an issue. It’s very odd being able to undo the lid after 30 minutes on track! 😂
This is a sinfully boring program.
Which is a shame because I quite like drew, he’s a really knowledgeable man.
And that ‘restoration’ on the Williams couldn’t have been more poorly shown. Rubbish.