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My advice....
Listen to a few different installs, (carry your own disc containing music you are very familiar with), use this experience to guide you towards your preferred system....
Plan your install to suit your budget, the two easiest ways are either to buy it all in one hit & fit it, or...
Will you be running a sub ???
I have used a few sets of Focal speakers, I always find them to be well built and pretty good value for money....
As with all speakers, the method of installation can vastly affect overall results....If you don't plan on deadening your doors & using MDF baffles...
Real men don't use a drill, they use an angle grinder and homemade grommets.....;)
A few pics of a dumdum wiring job:rasp:
Take one battery
A few cable tidies to erm, support cable:rofl:
A grommet in the boot floor
Then start wiring:clap: 30 runs of Knukonceptz 0awg....
The source, (media type), is the most important part of any audio/video system.....An amplifier simply amplifies the signal it receives, the speakers simply reproduce sound in accordance to the amplified signal.....
I have used various types of high to low level converters with varying results...
If battery was drained with the head unit removed, then this could indicate possible loom damage or a damaged fuse box.....
Check this out ASAP just in case it gets worse and does actually ignite the insulation or plastics.....
You would be better off fitting power cable now that will suit any further upgrades you may have planned.....
You seem to be quoting manufacturers peak ratings when talking about your current items, I would advise you ignore these....
The two amplifiers you are currently discussing would seem...
Been a few threads recently asking for advice & opinions on certain head units, just wondering what most people are using.....
Selecting a new Head Unit is, IMO, a very personal thing, you will either love it, or hate it....But what is it that draws you to yours?????
So, the questions are...
After market amplifiers will carry certain protection circuits, but mass produced head units which are designed & fitted to drive a set car audio system will rarely have these features built in, (not needed, upgrades aren't expected or recommended), couple to this the relatively low power...
You want to spend £40 on a used item which has previously been repaired & comes with a 30 day warranty as a temporary stop gap.....
The Sony unit offered will be more reliable, easier to sell on once your ready to & the seller seems to be known & respected....
No brainer for me...
Assuming you do it correctly you should suffer no electrical ill effects....
Do it incorrectly and head unit damage is likely....
If using the 6x9s to replace existing rear speakers, then splice into stock speaker loom,(soldered connection is best)....
If using 6x9s in conjunction with rear...
Priceless, actually made me chuckle....
Voltage will suffer due to resistance....Higher resistance equals lower voltage...
Resistance alters in relation to draw....Higher demand equals higher resistance which equals lower voltage....
With regards your formula, never heard it before....Can't...
Not usually....
The Alternator supplies more than enough to charge the battery & run the cars IGN system....
If you drive with lights, wipers, heated screens & heater blower on then issues may arise....
The normal culprit for causing running issues is the Alternator itself....
In the fuse box there will be two fuses covering the stock radio loom, the fuse covering the IGN live in most cases is a lower rating than the fuse covering the PERM live....In the case where you switch these feeds to facilitate the memory function its quite common for these fuses to blow and...
Sounds to me like its the IGN live fuse thats gone mate, any other fuse and the unit would stay as is, (screen out displaying nothing), not act as though you've turned the IGN off...
What size power cable are you using???
What amplifiers are you using??? (just the Kenwood ???)...
Using a multi-meter;
Voltage across Batt terminals, (engine OFF) = ???Vs
Voltage across Batt terminals, (engine ticking over) = ???Vs
Music playing at low volume, (engine running)...
Voltage...
I assume you actually wish to upgrade one of the 'big three'....
The 'Big Three'....
1, Battery
2, Alternator
3, Charge circuit wiring, (commonly known as 'TB3')
The Charge Circuit wiring consists of;
1, ADDED Battery Earth---This should at least match your new power cable, if your new supply...
Can't really answer that one mate, not without some parameters anyway....
Enclosure type & size???
Music tastes???
Available amplifier power???
Effect desired, (output, quality or a mix of both)???
The Pioneer one you mention does perform quite well in ported enclosures, but there are better...
With regards reliability....
There are a few repair centres which sell refurbished Vibe items through E-Bay, these are warranty returns which are repaired then re-sold....
Vibe Refurbs
You have been warned.....
The Vibe active units are ideal for anyone who wants to 'keep it simple'....
They are fairly loud and produce deep punchy bass....
Reliability can be an issue....
I'm assuming the quoted 3k power handling is the peak BS figure, so going to guess at a rated 1kw rms power handling.....
To generate that kind of power within your budget and stick with new your looking at a JBL GTO 1201.1, which are becoming rather scarce now....(try e-bay shops)....
Another...
Later Alpine units are naturally 'bright'....
Infinity speakers also are naturally 'bright'....
You fitted coaxial speakers, (incorporates a tweeter), in place of a 'mid', (no tweeter)....
You also have dash mounted 'tweeters' still running....
Your complaining its sounding 'bright', wonder...
Check its the steering wheel thats out & not the tracking mate.....
Simplest way to check is to get steering wheel 'straight', then turn to full lock one way, note wheel position, then turn to full lock the other way and again note wheel position, if its the same both ways then its the tracking...
Check battery condition???
Check battery clamps are both tight???
Don't play with any more wiring that your not sure of....
Check all fusing in the fuse box....
Have you sorted the draining battery issue....
I assume your asking with regards an 'Inverted' sub....
Advantages;
1, No sub displacement, (allows physically smaller enclosures)...
2, Zero mounting depth, (allows for very shallow enclosures)...
Disadvantages;
1, Possible motor noise, (depends on sub used)...
2, Possible chuffing noise from...
You can mount any sub 'inverted' mate....
'Free Air' or 'Infinite Baffle', is mounting on a 'Baffle' with no enclosure as such on each side of the sub, so if you mount a sub in the rear shelf of a saloon or hatchback for example, then that would be considered 'Free Air' or 'Infinite Baffle'...
Have you considered an 'inverted' sub???
The two designs would sound the same, only consideration with regards internal shape is in relation to air movement around any ports fitted, no ports, no worries....
The only consideration with regards mounting depth is that of cooling, if there is a...