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Ate fluid is cheap s**t! I had it in my rally car and just bedding ds3000s in boiled the fluid! I quickly realised brakes are not worth skimping on and as much as we all hate it you get what you pay for!
Thanks for the offer mick is that bcs? It will be a few months yet as the car is being stripped to a bare shell then built.. I wanted to have a big pile of bits (including suspension) and just bolt them on but I'm not to sure now! To many options! :)
Road rallying isn't stages.. It's not gravel or tarmac it's both in the same night without the time to adjust settings so you want a good all roudner which is pretty hard to find! Bilsteins are the norm you see as they are stiffer than normals and can take the punishment (my old man has an ae86...
Thanks for everyone's input so far! I think track suspension is much more finely tuned but most of them won't stand the abuse a rally car gets :( unless you are willing to spend 3k+ there doesn't seem to be many options, I'll go for the billies I think buy a reiger Strut every 6 months.. Haha
My mate had a pair of adjustable ledas on a 205 he started the night on 5 ended the night on adjustment 24 they were totally fucked In one night! The b14 is definitely a track focused Strut but there is alot of cars in Belgium that run them but I'm not sure if they run the b14 or another version
I spoken to some of the Belgium drivers and they use either proflex or bilsteins b14 Road rallys are 120+ mile so it takes a strong system.. Stuff like spax leda and of the cheaper shite overheats and becomes useless by the end of the night
So far it's
1.Bilstein
2.Kw
3.Gaz gold
Eventually...
hi gents, ill be ordering all the parts for my rally car build in the next few weeks , ill be doing mainly road rallys with the odd single venue thrown in , so mainly tarmac but with the odd bit of gravel and rough concrete.. i been searching for ages for what bilsteins to use ?
outpace had...
My clio 172 cup has a cliosport sticker on wondering if the old owner is still on here?
It's going to be a rally car in the near future the body work is really nice.. The mechanical side isn't the best though! It's been well abused that's for sure! Needs a full box rebuild engine mounts...
I work at a rally school and changing a cv joint takes about 10 minutes and it will last as long as a brand new shaft (tried and tested) packing it isn't rocket science either.. Seems people are to eager to change shafts on these cars! All it is a bar with a clip and a few splines on.. Not much...
I wouldn't drain the whole gearbox as when you take the shaft out your only loose a bit (it's not as low as the drain plug) I personally get the shaft out with a pry bar but if it's fucked anyway a hammer won't hurt just be careful of the Diff seals
I doubt it will get stuck in the bearing a...
I'd get a decent earth then just prod each part of the connector I'd do it while it's being cranked else the ecu might turn it off after its primed if the ignition is just left on I'm a newbie to these clios so not sure how it works
Just a quick one.. I'm in the process of building a cup rally car.. When the drive shafts break do the shafts themselves break or is the inner or outer joint? I'm not sure to try get an updated pair before I start the build