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Sounds like you've not put it back together properly after doing the plugs. Have you checked the inlet and all pipework etc?

Lol at all the 'scene' crap. What's the betting you have silver visions and all that s**t? Clio 'scene' is alright though I assume? I'm not sure lowering and some Audi centre caps gets you full blown 'scene' membership Anyway. Needs more camber and rust to fit in these days.

ATE Superblue is not what I would use for a track car. Get yourself something decent - some Motul RBF 600 or something similar.

Absolutely no need to change them on a stock car. What are you hoping to acheive by changing them? Map = Change the parameters on the ECU, ie a remap.

Here's a very quick video of what the exhaust is doing. Only when it feels like it, and it's only as it drops back down from 2000 revs, it pops at about 1500 revs. There's one thing though, at least i'vew not had to choose a 'pop's and bang's' map for this to happen, it's just a by-product of...

Perfectly normal Do yourself a favour though - get rid of the god awful wheels!

I didn't, and have no intentions of doing!

Sell up - move on. If you are having these thoughts it's unlikely you will shake them off. Move onto bigger and better things would be my advice.

I'd be concerned about the coolant loss. It's a sealed system so it's either leaking, or making it's way into the engine. Either way it needs investigating. You can have it looked at though, there are sniffer tests etc that can be done quickly and cheaply to identify if its HG related. Be...

http://www.cliosport.net/threads/lumpy-idle-while-ac-is-on.576791/ Mick gives a good explantion

You won't sort that yourself on your driveway - you need a specialist. It's in an odd place, so i'm not sure if you'll be able to have it repaired paintless or not.

That's my thinking, i'll be doing the belts at some point anyway, so it's not much more of a job to whip the head off and drop the shims in. The kit's abpout £350 I think, and that's with OEM belts, gaskets etc so not bad really. Unless I can just get the shims from somewhere? Not really looked...

Shouldn't need it done really, it seems to be that only badly mapped cars are cracking liners. That said, I'm still contemplating doing it when I come to do the belts, the kit is only a couple of hundred quid for the belts and the shins etc.

Ideally yes, I'll change the inlet to a metal one, but they aren't all that expensive. I've got the powerflex insert for the torque mount, a common upgrade is the efocus mount from the USA

Video fixed! Nah, nothing like that sort of cost. It's taken about £1500 to get where I am. All I need is turbo and injectors then a map. Everything else is good to go.

£1500 should do it, if I can pick up a turbo cheaply. If I have to buy new then £2k. Should be good for 400 - 440bhp and 400blft+ Quick vid of the exhaust note

I've not had it on the rollers again since it ran 282, but with the new pipework and relocated ecu I suspect 290-300. I could definitely feel a difference anyway!

Post the ad up - that's very odd

It's a long time since i've updated this thread - nothing much has changed this year, been busy with the little one she's just coming up for 8 months old now and loves to drive my car:- The car has been perfect for the last 6 months, giving 24mpg average and lots of smiles. No more issues...

Just go outside and look at them. It's usually easy enough to tell if the sun is out. Failing that, a torch or something will help you find it too.

It doesn't automatically kill off the NCD though, that's what you are missing. You can have a claim AND have 10 years NCD

It's unlikely you will lose all your NCD. Check the small print of your poilicy. I know mine contains a table that shows how many years NCD I lose dependning on the number of fault claims I have. I'm fairly certain that I would only lose 2 of my 10 years if I were to have a fault claim this...

Chipping is an old skill thing. Newer cars like the 182 arent chipped. They are remapped using the OBD2 port. I believe most maps raise the rev limiter so that's probably a good way to tell.

Did you change both tyres? If you've got either odd tyres or tyres with differing wear levels it could do it.

Having said that, if were are talking about £1500 worth of 1*2 then buy on condition and condition alone.

RECEIPTS RECEIPTS RECEIPTS!! My current car has more in receipts that I paid for the car! At last count (not including the (1k+ i've spent on it) it was at about £5k, all Volvo main dealer. Even wipers were changed at the main dealer! Everything is main dealer up until I got it. I've just kept...

No - but then I wouldn't use it if it were brand new either.

Coolant level shouldn't really drop, it's a sealed system, yes it will go up/down depending on temperature. If the level has dropped below minimum it's either leaked or entered the engine. Either way it's not good. I'd be gettting it looked at by Renault, especially as it is still under warranty.

Inlet manifold maybe?

You sure it's a 170? It's registered as a 150, and it looks like a 150 engine from what I can remember. Not a bad motor either way.