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Can you not just cable tie it from above if using solid lines, copper pipe will bend/crease easily if it drops. Someone holding it would be ideal but it took me ages to get the sub axel of as the bolts are a PITA to get to.

Great bit of driving getting past that FD RX7. You could see the difference in power to the Clio on the straights but your skill level shone through in the bends. Any damage to the NSF?

It's saying payment needed for yours but this is where I got mine for the FF for free. Maybe you only get one free? http://bonxyradio.com/index.php

I seriously need a decent wheel and stand. Keep seeing them going on ebay, might sell my Oz f1s to fund or put a swap thread up, lol.

Can anyone tell me HTF to get in the community events, there's zero info in game and all 30+ are closed?

Get the F1 as well :wink:

phillyf21 on ps4 if anyone fancies a game some time.

Just done Brands GP in 1:23 in the Zonda R set to manual. Didn't save my time on time trail but I didn't go of track.

Hahah ya dick! Set-up manual gears last night but didn't give them a go, will try it out later. It awful in auto...

Just got this, WTF is wrong with some of the cars, the FRS for example bounces when turning the wheels even when stationary and in the GT3 porker around Brands it changes gear up, up, up, down, down, up...buggy as hell and unplayable at times.

And slower :tongueclosed:

Didn't come from a Scooby or Evo but a 300hp Mazda 6 MPS so AWD saloon. I sold the Mazda and took a punt on the Clio 182 FF and have not once looked back, they are the best budget track car out there and are really competitive with a few mods such as track tyres and brakes. An example: My old...

I went with ECP leads on my 182 (same as 172 I think?) and have been fine on my track car for the last 9 months (5 track days)..£19.50 with £25% discount code PAYDAY25...

I find some tyres seem wider than others eg r888s in 195 seem more like 205, whereas p zero Nero in 205 seem more like 195. Could be something to do with sidewall thickness and whether they have rim protection or not. Just my 10p worth.

Nope they will be good spec, change the fluid then take it from there.

Maybe the discs if proper cheapo ones.

Ahhhh. Yeah typical brake fade mate, may have even boiled your fluid as well. I find brakes are better on track with pad deposits on the disc but to get them you really need to work the brakes continually. I have Carbone Lorraine RC5+ in a part stripped 182 and get brake fade after 5 hot laps...

They're a road/track pad and will fade under heavy use. The 265 isn't exactly light either. Change the fluid first and see if that works, are your discs smooth or do they have pad deposits on them? Did you bed them in properly?

This^ I'm on RS3's on my 182 road/wet wheels and on my Mondeo ST and cant fault them for the price. Even done a few laps at Oulton recently in the dry and they where great, anymore though and they would just melt. Done around 9k miles in my Mondy and still loads of tread left on them, different...

http://www.motmotorsport.co.uk/nankang-ns-2r-195-50-15-86w-xl--soft-eff-f-wgrip-b-noise-71-134-p.asp

http://www.motmotorsport.co.uk/nankang-ns-2r-195-50-15-86w-xl-medium-eff-f-wgripb-noise-71-133-p.asp

After a bit of reading looks like the b14's are 400lb front/285lb rear which equates to 7.1kg front/5kg rear. "Bilstein coilover kits are tuned for road use with softer rear springs to keep good traction and stability even in poor conditions"

With the BC's you can choose between 4-8kg front/8kg rear or have them custom made to your preference. B14's are a road/track coilover so presume they would be softer, don't they use Eibach/H&R springs?

I'd be looking at BC coilovers over the Bilsteins as the latter are meant to be a bit soft for a dedicated track car, plus the BC's come with the option of solid camber adjustable top mounts.

Just told the missus I'm thinking of selling up and she said "no, no you're not, you'll just buy another in 6 months. I'm not letting you seriously, you love that car" hahaha, that's that then....

Was just thinking about condensation in the tank over the winter?

Track only mate and that's the worry coming back to it in 6 months and I can't get it to start then it's totally worthless. I know just starting a car and letting it idle for a while every so often is actually worse than just leaving it for long periods.

No outside mate, good shout on the damp catchers. What about a coolant refresh, mine looks a little cloudy?

Whats the deal on storing these for 6+ months? Full tank of fuel Oil change Up on stands Block the exhaust Cover Anything else?

I know mate that's the worry, a grand is nothing for how much they make you smile.