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Yep I changed it a few weeks ago but was sure I'd done everything up. Going to take the slam panel off tonight and have a proper nosey around with a torch. So despite it being a flanged head, we think its no.11 in the below?

Okay so general consensus is that it’s either the AC or more likely the bracket to the block. And that it’s free weight saving. Can also confirm that the fuel rail guard is studs and nuts, and that the AC pump and alternator are rock solid

As in “put it in the glovebox til something sounds loose”? :LOL: Yep still got AC. Only thing that’s different since last time I changed the oil filter was the belts were done. Might it have escaped during that?

Wait I’ve misunderstood. It IS the circled bolt and it goes behind the alternator? So I’ve got to take it out again?…

Yeah it is thicker with less thread and no smaller diameter locating end. Forgive me, but I can’t find no.2 on the diagram… it’s been a long day lol.

That’s what I thought, but the post after yours suggests otherwise…

Good thinking. Although that’s not been touched for years. Will check in the daylight tomorrow.

Hi all. Changing the oil on the 172 today and as I got the oil filter off, there was a long, flanged-hexhead bolt jammed behind. Now have I been a dumb s**t when changing the alternator a few weeks ago and it’s slipped out during the wrestling-into-place? I’ve not driven the car since but...

Just another person coming on here to warn others about fraud. My place got stung for £75,000 last year. Was a very clever system used and started off with legitimate sales etc to build up a rapport and trading history over a few months before the shenanigans started. With the OP stating its...

Update 8/2 1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs. 2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter. 3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff. 4) Figure out if the rad fans are actually functioning. Its never...

Was that by hand or with a machine? I've tried by hand with sandpaper, the Turtle Wax restoration kit and also using a drill with a flexipad and sanding discs.

As mentioned previously, I've tried a few times to polish my headlights with no joy. There's this cloudiness that you can feel from the outside. Is it inside the lens or do I just need to polish more? The lenses are pretty smooth...

That was this weekend's job! Still get kinda surprised when I remember I own a house. A work in progress, but got a shot of the other work in progress at the same time! Bumper off! Closeup of my tumble dryer hose bespoke self designed brake ducts God bless whoever found out...

Update 8/1 1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs. I've used a cable tie to pull the exhaust mount poly bush over to one side, but I suspect it will need further adjustment when I can get it in the air. The exhaust is definitely touching the exhaust mount though. I suspect it'll need...

Does the difference above suggest that they're a reseller, buying parts in from different manufacturers and slapping their sticker on the boxes?

Free keyring

They can't want to do it that badly if they're quoting those prices :LOL:

Battery came back fine on the tester, so threw the multimeter on. 11.7v across terminals, so its goosed. Luckily I can get it rebuilt through a friend of a friend so not a total financial nightmare.

*le shánke

Brill thanks will have a look! I remembered it should have been higher than 12v but the scale on the live data readout for the code reader only said 0-12v so I'm hoping its an easy diagnosis.

1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs. 2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter. 3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core & swap fluid for high temp stuff. 4) Figure out if the rad fans are actually functioning. Its never overheated...

Okay so more as a way of keeping track of things for myself, my plans for the winter rebuild are as follows: 1) Solve exhaust vibration at high revs. 2) Change oil & filter, plugs, leads, fit new cabin filter. 3) Sort out hose routing for power steering cooler, install, mount cooler core &...

Good, that's what I was leaning towards, but like you said - I wanted to avoid a parts-cannon approach!

I’ve never done them so at least 6 years. I was just a bit confused as with it being electrical my first thought was they either work or they don’t. But then I thought about the strength of the current and if they’d be getting brittle now and changing them would avoid any breakdowns in the future.

Would folks recommend changing the HT leads when doing the work plugs? No issues or anything etc just wondered if it’s worth doing on a 17 year old car

The name rang a bell with me tbh, strong opinions and very active on FB trackday groups?

Just realised how badly I need a better spoiler...

Thanks for updating with info even though nobody replied. Should start offering your services for £20 a pop!

White

Test drove the other day and it was fine. Came to work in it today and found that above 5000rpm it vibrates like I've got my electric toothbrush in my back pocket! I think the hanger is touching the mount. Will have a bit of a fiddle this weekend.