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Cos the 172 cups where stripped of things which lessened the weight , aircon , xenon headlights etc.... so the ones with all the toys are called full fat ;)

Most 182's FF's come with cup suspension , front splitter and rear spoiler , anthracite alloys ( cup pack) as most people seemed to take this option .

Had a 172 FF , great car , have a 182 FF now with cup packs which imo handles slightly better . Both good cars but for £10,000 your looking at a full fat 182 . Both FF 172 and 182's have the toys .

They are held on with clips , just get your fingers under the edge and they pull off .

I used stone grey to refurb my spare alloy , its 99% ok as a match , but i think that maybe rover gunmetal grey might be a better match .

Page 1. ;) I've tried toyo t1-r's and t1-s's both shite in the wet ok in the dry . Exaltos in the wet and dry for me .

Plugs on a 172 are supposed to be good for 72k , i think thats a bit optimistic , mine lasted about 30k . You can buy the cover that covers the oil filler cap separate from Renault .The clips do tend to break off easily , best thing to do whenchanging your oil or if somebody else is going to...

Yes it will fit ,182 is the same engine as 172 mk2

Can anyone reccomend a good cordless digital phone with answering machine please ? The ones we have at the moment are shite . 2 to 3 handsets only , price and where from ? Much appreciated for any help .

Thats what i always do . New to the back old ones to the front . You should always have your best tyres on the back . Read this article : http://www.pirelli.co.uk/en_GB/tyres/car_suv/utility_services/tech/tech4_gb.jhtml

These are the white screws to manually adjust the level of the lights :

Try copying the url into this site . It should translate it as near as damnit . http://www.worldlingo.com/en/websites/url_translator.html

Like edde says . Get an aerosol mixed up and spray it in the lid , go to a local motor factors where they mix paint , they'll do a tin of about usually between 400 - 600ml for the same price as the renault touch up . Don't bother with the lacquer you get in the touch up kits personally . A...

Nice pics there mate . Love the badges in anthracite :) Did you mask off the 16V bit ? Also did you lacquer over the badges ?

Yep. I had a powerflow catback on my old 172 from the guys in Burnley . Top job , only took 90mins , they let me choose the sound of the backbox also .

Like Rich says . Never bother with the lacquer , its actually cheaper to get the paint made up at a local car motor factors . I had some 600ml aerosols made up for the same price as the renault touch up paint and the colour match is exact . Just spray some in the lid , use a cocktail stick ...

No problem mate . Sorry i couldn't help anymore , but i can see the problem , they don't usually have that on the pad mounting bracket stopping the retaining clip from sliding out .

Do you have that on both sides of the car ? Mine doesn't on the 182 and didn't on the 172 . Can you tap the retaining clip inwards then to give you enough clearance to remove the pads ?

^^^^ Give me a minute mate . I have a spare set of calipers in my shed , i'll go and have a quick look .

It'll be a combination of brake dust, dirt , maybe a little bit of rust . Get a flat bladed screwdriver or a punch and tap it out with a hammer . There's nothing else to stop it sliding outwards away from the car . Once its out clean the retaining bar with some sandpaper also clean the surface...

I don't know what guide you guys are using , but you don't need to remove any part of the caliper to change the rear pads . All you need to do is remove the spring clip , tap out the pad retaining plate outwards ( small angled piece of metal ) then pull the old pads out using some pliers ...

pm sent Zack ;)

Or buy some silver visions from here and get the blue sidelight bulbs free . http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk/

Have you tried disconnecting the battery and leaving it for 30 mins then ? This is what it said i had to do in the instructions for the apollo , which i ignored, lol . Even the AA couldn't get me going again and had to tow me home . So i rang k+n and spoke to the bloke on research and...

Fcuk me . I was panicking then for a minute then . I really did think that i ran the risk of getting dirt in my engine . Turns out i'm ok now , as everything is always clean before and after i do an oil change . Phewwwww ;)

Well i dont have any mechanics hanging around at home at moment , usually there are at least 2 or 3 but they seem to have buggered off , lol . So seeing that you suggested you get dirt in the engine when doing an oil change i'm asking you .

I have a k+n cone filter inside a home made aluminium enclosure , it definitely pulls hard right through the rev range and the 5k kick is still there .Don't know if it makes any difference , but the k+n has a larger surface area than the standard panel filter also .

How are you going to get dirt in the engine ? I use a clean funnel to pour the oil in so there's absolutely no risk of any dirt getting in the engine ;)

I used to use comma in my 172 all the time . I used to change it every 6k . http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m1b79s114p1404 It doesn't matter what oil you put in . The more miles the engine as done the more old oil / sediment will be left in the sump so when you put in new oil...

There are 2 air feeds . One goes down to the acoustic valve ,down towards the wheel arch , the second air feed is alot shorter and just clips into the bracket next to the battery .It turns and locks in place . Try disconnecting your battery for 30 mins , then see if this makes a difference ...