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What you wanting to know about Grp n timing mate?

What do you plan on using the car for mate?

DO NOT USE GL5 SPEC OIL. That post from Mick is actually incorrect for a jc5. You only need GL4. GL5 oil is to slippery and it will kill the synchros.

Yeah plus postage to Slovenia, which tbh, I’m not keen on doing. Best option is to deal direct with Quaife/gripper.

So the Quaife is what’s known as a automatic torque biasing differential, so it sends drive to the wheel that’s spinning, but it never fully locks giving 100% drive. A gripper is a plate diff. This means the amount of lock up the diff gives can be setup according to the desired usage. However...

Nice one mate. 👍🏻👍🏻

Well assuming the jb1 gearbox runs the same size diff as a jb3/jc5, you’ve got a few options. I can supply and fit a Quaife or a gripper. Unfortunately I don’t know if they share the same sized diff. Whereabouts in the world are you mate?

Let me know what colour the oil is when you drop it!

Not anymore I don’t mate. They proved to be as toss as the originals unfortunately.

It’s the clearance between the cams and the journals - same thing you check with the bottom end bearing clearances.

Yeah but has the clearance been measured mate? Those clearances are quite important.

Please tell me the cam journals have been measured in terms of clearance after the hone?

Great looking car that mate! I’ve been tempted by a Melbourne red one, but no price can be agreed at present.

Ok mate no worries. Yeah deffo replace the clutch

Yeah that’s the box that’s fucked. It’s a bearing failure, most likely the mainshaft. Diffs are worthwhile, but for road use go with a Quaife. I’ve got a box here that I’ll be rebuilding and selling if you’re interested? Can be built with a Quaife too, but you’ll be looking at around £1600.

Stats fucked. It’ll stop the dpf regen too with it being that cool.

Nah the hubs are very much plug and play buddy. You need to have a look at the subframe to see if the rear bolt holes have elongated. Definitely check your wishbones though, but the drivers side looks to be giving the correct cup castor offset.

Run the downpipe under the box in between the subframe. ? - think outside of it. ?

Just run it out over the gearbox if space is that tight.

Why are you trying to get the plate out anyway mate?