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If you look on the rack (about smack bang in the middle of the car) you'll see there's 2 upright fittings. These are the 2 that require the bridge pipe. If your original pipes are there, you can cut them and leave a bit of a hose tail to them, then just connect a piece of hose between the 2...

Definitely don't go more than 10mm as it'll ruin the scrub geometry. I personally would go for the 5mm option as it'll still keep the scrub geo sensible. There's a lad on here that sells the spacers - M.A.D and he's in the traders section. 5mm spacers will still work with standard bolts as...

To bridge it is a piece of piss mate. Does it have the standard pipe work still on it? If so, is it still full of fluid? Personally I would be tempted to leave it as it currently is. If it's clearly been working ok, then I'm not sure I'd bother wasting my time.

Ha ha ha! I had fg doors for mine but sold them on. Just couldn't be arsed with the faff of getting it all painted. Weight saving though benefits all areas!

Well I've seen the videos of you and @Fraser.J. so I reckon that it could lead to some 12 bore action between the 2 of you! Lol! Keep em coming! Makes for good watching!

So does a 12 bore with the right cartridges. Lol

Yeah no problem at all mate.

Pin 6, 14 and 75 if it's load potentiometer or, pin 7, 17 and 82 if it's the motorised potentiometer. I'd need to double check on my loom first though to be 100%

A bit of machining, and yes I can still get them done.

Roll centre kit? Yes. He's got ph1 toms old setup

No mate you need to strip the rack down to access the internals. Don't blank the rack - it causes a pressure build up inside the rack and it WILL lock your steering.

There's a seal that's about smack bang in the middle of the rack that's there to stop fluid transfer between the halves of the steering rack. That's been removed and the area that the seal sits in has been grooved to allow the air to move.

The grease is packed in at the rack and pinion end, and also there's some inside the rack to help lubricate the shaft seals that are found at either end. The rack is modified internally to reduce pressure build up as well.

Yeah I did mine. Piece of piss to do. I wrapped the bezel around the clocks as well!

Mine just ran with the residual pas fluid that was left in the rack after I drained the system off. The new rack is a modified power rack and it's filled with grease.

Superleggeras will be that colour soon. Lol

For trophy turinis you'll get away with a 10mm spacer. Et36 should comfortably clear them without spacers though.

Cup turinis - loadsa room!16" et37 superleggeras - not so much room! Spacer required.

Yes, and yes. :up:

I think it's possible with CLip mate, or the Rs tuner has an additional module you can add to it.

It's a shame to see you've decided to split the car up, but I can relate to where your coming from. I have a mk5 golf as my daily driver. Air con, iPod connection, comfy seats, comfy suspension etc etc, and there's no f**king way I'd run the cup as a daily! Lol!

Lol!

Well you've seen my thread! Lol

No problem at all.

No worries at all mate. If you strip the clocks down you'll be able to lift the fascia plate up enough to do the insulation tape trick. It's certainly the easiest option! You only need the clear perspex off the front and your as good as there. Just fold the insulation tape over on itself so it...

Yeah. I don't see the point of the resistors unless you plan on refitting all the airbags at some point to return it back to a road car. The car will start if you just remove the airbag ecu mate. The cables only weigh ounces anyway tbh, so just cable tie them up out of the way.

Like! Like! Like! Love fabrication like this!

The airbag ecu is under the gear lever surround. If you disconnect it, yes the lights will come on the dash. That's easily rectified by the tape method though. You could remove the light as its only an led bulb. The airbag system is on the canbus from what I can remember, but with mine removed...

I just removed the entire airbag gubbins. No f**king about with resistors then. You just need to go easy with the wire cutting that's all and not get carried away. The lights on the dash are easily rectified with some black electrical tape placed underneath the clock fascia.

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