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Lol!! What plate would that be then mate? I don't know of one with 2 holes in tbh?? I'm assuming you've got confused with either the renfort plate (which isn't needed with an aftermarket diff) or the reinforcement plate that requires machining to the casings. I didn't use the latter as I...

You need to send your original diff to Quaife so they can fit your crownwheel to the diff, but other than that, no mate.

I like to do things different. Off the shelf is too easy!

Don't be put off mate, it's not just Curtis that can refurb them. He's a genuinely nice guy tbf and that's why it makes it so much more frustrating when he doesn't do as he promises.

The rear needs compliance mate. That's the simple truth.

There's 2 sets for sale in the classifieds section currently. Sensible prices as well......

I honestly can't wait to see what this does on the sprints next season!!

I have nothing suitable to say to this that's forum friendly. Lol! I'll text it. :wink:

It's not far off at all. Blyton is about half way between sunny scunny and my home town of Lincoln. Welcome to the club @craigo!! And more importantly, excellent choice! The mans choice allegedly. Lol

I run Ast sportline 2's or 5100's as they're now know and I'm on 450 fronts and 475 rears. It's a tad to soft on the fronts now, but it's nothing awful. I'm actually considering upping the fronts and dropping the rears slightly. Not decided 100% yet though.

Still nothing to update on the engine front I'm afraid sports fans. Been busy the past few weeks with other things like sorting out the caliper brackets and other bits and pieces, so I've not had a chance to even attempt to look at the cup!! I have however got a few exciting things in the...

@DCELEC 182 you'll only really notice the gripper when your accelerating hard out of the corners as it'll give you a slightly better performance vs the Quaife, but it's only very minor. If the last tenth of a second counts then you need a gripper. I can supply a gripper with the adapter plate...

I've moved one and deleted the other thread mate. Seek and ye shall find regards the tie rods mate. :wink: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/possible-cheaper-inner-track-rod.675576/ The majority of information you'll need should be in that thread. :up:

Done.

The 4 ports at the bottom of the column can be filled with silicone sealant mate. You'll be fine to join the pipes on the rack with rubber hose as well. It's no longer under any pressure you see.

Which bits are you blanking off mate? The ones near where the column bolts on? If so, just fill them with sealant mate.

Remember that your not trying to increase the roll stiffness by upping the spring rates mate. You still need some compliance in the suspension. My advice would be reduce the rear toe/add some toe out in the mix if your wanting oversteer tbh. I'm currently on 450 fronts and 475 rears. Fronts...

Progress looks good mate! Spring rate wise - 450's all round and see what you think. You may need to up the fronts to 500's but it's personal preference.

To highlight your comments and then in theory bring it to the op's attention. Does that cause you a problem? It appears that it's rattled you for some reason?

Agreed. But my point still stands. It was more for the op's benefit.

I'd be soaking the Ast top mounts in a penetrating fluid (as in immersed) over at least 24hrs. They'll come undone then.

Assuming that's not just a generic image of course.

All the best with that! Lol! I'll stick to stripping them down I think. It's certainly the easiest way that I can see to do them and remain trouble free.

Anything is possible mate. Costs are usually the killer in these scenarios though. I will not fit wossners for example, so that means a more expensive piston. Building reliability costs. Fact.

You know me Tony, always looking at stuff! Lol! Got some interesting things in the pipeline. :cool: Yeah you fit them through where the selector shaft sits mate. The shaft has to come out. No other way unfortunately. This is what the forums all about to me! Finding issues like this and helping...

The extra costs come from the necessity to remove the gearbox and then it needing to be stripped down to replace the seal mate. But, I'm pretty much 100% confident this will rectify the issue. That TND b****cks, I'm not so confident in.

No mate. Only a belt off job if you fit cams at the same time.

Your issue will come from how your going to remove the bushes mate.

Get it looked at and see if the bolt fix sorts the job out. If it doesn't then you know it's time to factor in a rocker cover reseal. If it's not howling out you'll be fine for a good while yet mate.

You'll be fine mate. If it had pulled the threads, you'd know! They're quite common for this, so you should be fine with just sealing the bolt. It won't do any damage as it is mate unless your losing that much oil your putting in s**t loads on a daily basis! Don't worry about the other bits...