Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
That looks to me to be just the standard type of hub nut you get with most wheel bearings. The bits with cut the outs grips on to the thread of the driveshaft to stop them coming loose. The washer that spins on the nut is to spread the load across a larger area and allow the torque to applied to...
Looks good mate! Not thought about rubbing back the paint to expose the Renaultsport writing on the inlet? It would just break up the black a bit. You could always paint it pink to match boost hoses?
Now you mention it, I'm pretty sure that James said something about a tilton being the only available/suitable bias valve other than what was run on the cup racers of course.
If your on a cup you need everything in that list except the alternator. You remove your p/steering pump and lines, the original column and the rack if your fitting a dci item. Then it's a case of fit the column, control box fitting and wiring in and rack assuming that's the option you choose...
No is the simple answer. If you bypass it you'll end up with full braking effort going to the rear. The compensator valve is set to a preset value to stop this happening.
If the TL4 box is anything like the JC5 it will only wear out the dog teeth on the gear (the expensive bit to replace) rather than wearing out the softer synchro ring teeth.
To remove the tar strips you need a hot air gun and a scraper. After that you need thinners to remove the residue.
When you say removed everything, are we talking standard seats as well and replaced with bucket seats? After that your into fibreglass panels, but they're not massively cheap in...
It looks huge because what you can see in the picture is the body of the damper mate. They're actually inverted in the casing on the sportline 2's/5100. It's to reduce the flex to the bare minimum. Don't be fooled by the bullshit Martin! Lol!
I just bought the stiff shift mate, so it's whatever comes in that kit. I can't remember now as it was bought and fitted a few years ago now. Yanoo will be able to confirm what comes in the kit.
Sounds like a plan then mate. I've already got the Yanoo kit in the cup and really rate it tbh. I'm not sure that I'd swap to the pure shifter unless it really did feel substantially different/better
Yeah you'd be surprised at just how much weight removal on these cars does make mate. I've upset a fair amount of exotica in what's essentially a stripped out cup.
I'd say it's more important to keep the weight as low as possible. Sometimes you don't have much choice in terms of adding heavy items as they're a necessity. Unless you go full motorsport spec and source lightweight items of course, but that just adds time and ££££££'a to the job.
Good of to...
No it won't effect geometry mate, but fitting new rear beam bushes is a good idea. I'm yet to see a set that are knackered tbh, but uprating them is always worth doing for less compliant items.
Regards the solid rear top bushes, I'd say they possibly make the damper do around 2-5% more of the...
Not really mate, but it removes any compliance that you might get from the standard bushes. I was in a position where I could have some sets made up, so I did.
Hi mate! It's not going to be for a couple of weeks/a month before I can get the engine to my new house for stripping as it's currently residing 65 miles away from where I currently live. If you can hold out a while you can have the brackets.
Great news about the v2's as well. Pleased that...
2 reasons really mate. 1) cost! So f**king expensive to buy new and rare to see them come up secondhand. 2) not enough ponys to pull the skin off a rice pudding! Lol!
This is all set to change though. ;)
This was why I had some custom made nylon rear bushes made for me and BIGASH. I didn't have any originals and needed some asap. I've got 2 originals you can have Martin.