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They're rub on the outer rear arch anyway if its a mk1 non-16v.

TBH i'd just bin it as a 1.4 will be fairly worthless...on-one will sensibly buy it. Next best option, strip the complete head off and stick it on ebay - that way you might catch someone with a cambelt snap and you won't have the same hassle of posting that you would with a complete engine.

^^what the man said and you can weld it while its still in the car but get some rubber mats down in case your carpet goes up. Alternatively, you can insert shims (basically just flat pieces of metal) into the joint to fill up the gap and remove the play. Have a look at...

Yep mole, they're replaceable...just screw into the head and the manifold then bolts onto them via nuts.

They're all energy engines so i'd expect so. If not, it'd be very very minor difference but still interchangable

These are hub carriers; 16v/williams strut bolt spacing is 54mm so you'll some new ones if yours is different. You'll get them off parctically any renault (i.e. clio, R19 etc) and its not just 16vs that have them...as long as its 54mm you can use them. :-)

K&N on mine. No worries with hot air ruining performance...i've just been sat in a traffic jam and the cone is colder than the std airbox would have been in a similar situation.

You can go -50mm on standard 16v shocks without any problems whatsoever so 40mm will be fine

You'll be able to get the tracking done regardless of what wheels tyres you've got...whoever told you otherwsie should be slapped on sight!

www.f7power.com/file_repository/pdfs/f7power_retrofitting_williams_front_track_to_a_clio_1.8_16v.pdf There you go. Aren't you the chap with the TNT oranage 1.2? If so, its exactly the same process...just make sure you've 16v hub carriers on

Was the green IK noticable larger or something than the K&N as they're both cotton?

If its the same as williams/1.8 16v calipers theres 2 ways; Firstly use a screwdriver to lever the brake piston back as far as possible into the caliper so theres plenty of room to get the thinkker pads then; 1. They'll be two bolts topmost on the caliper, loosen 1 with a spanner and...

Yes exactly. I'll also try and get pics of mine tonight to give you an idea.

1.2 Phase 3 yeah? Get a K&N cone on it as that sits over besid the suspension turret away from any engine heat, unlike the std airbox. I got one the other day...sounds good...fitting is a bit of a b*****d though.

No, i do not work for them, i simply recognise Hillpowers proven expertise and (having actually bought one) actually know the ins-and-outs of the product they're selling...hence why i'm sticking up for them. Perhaps their website is a slightly misleading but everyone knows that Nick tends to...

And how is recommending poeple to "stay clear of Hillpower...judging by the exorberent claims" healthy criticism? In reality you haven't bothered to even enquire about their chip...had you actually done this you'd know what i pointed out above, in which case its perfectly valid what they're...

Incidentally, i've just come back from (attempting) to get mine done - 12 degrees out! Thats after having a drop of about 70-80mm...

Yes it does! The more you lower the car the more the hub carrier will move upwards. Since the steering rack is a fixed width and attached to both these it will cause the hub carrier balljoints to move further out therby causing your wheels to mis-align. i.e they'll go from something like...

Strangley i'm getting mine done tonight for 30quid. Have you not got steelies you can whack back on to give them more space? 15mins to swap over...

Exactly. :-)