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Nice one, @Coops Turbo has an F4R MK1 as well.
I would just run the full 172 wiring setup, and shorten it/swap plugs for lights etc if needed, you can lose a fair bit of it (airbag and SRS stuff) but need the airbags deactivating in CLIP to keep the lights off.
Its easy if you follow each wire - some branch from big soldered joints of multiple wires, some go straight to the fuseboard/uch, some have shared earths etc. Just be methodical. Airbag plug needs some wires leaving in to prevent airbag light coming on (assuming you have deactivated or used...
Nice - looks great. Does the dash top fit without the bottom without any mods? Im planning to do similar to mine but need to work out where to put the UCH and fusebox as my cage legs are in the way.
'Quick' racks are 2.75 turns lock to lock, 3.25 turn is EPAS for petrol non-sports, the dci rack is the quicker 'manual' rack and the sport is the only hydro rack, 2.75 turns.
Injector... have it running with the misfire and fuel rail guard removed, unplug one injector at a time (not the injector itself, just the plug), it should run even worse until you get to the faulty one which will make no change to the running. Mine was injector 1 near the belt.
Bit of a bump on this.
Had EPAS fitted for a good while but I have a horrible creak when turning the wheel, especially at low speed. If you have your foot near the column when turning you can feel it transmitting, almost pinging back if that makes sense. Any ideas? Is it likely to be the rack?
Hi all,
Cleared out my garage recently. I am after 1 or 2 workbenches for general use but eventually intending to strip gearboxes/engines etc. on them so could do with them being heavy duty/not s**t. I would also like to mount a vice on them. Not fussed about shelving but a draw or good space...