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Pop the spark plugs out if you want it to turn over by hand a bit easier. You can also use a long screwdriver or similar in Cyl 1 or 4 to see when it's coming up on TDC.

Crank pin position will be the same. Same procedure on all F4R. Assume you have standard cam timing and not Group N or similar?

I don't think you can swap these side to side, otherwise you could have tested it that way.

Decent stuff the Unilite gear.

If the 200 sensors are anything like the Mk3 Megane ones, they're fragile as f**k for some reason.

Do your headlights flicker?

If it's anything like the Mk3, when the battery has been off it asks you if it's new with a Yes/No on the dash. That's all that should be needed.

Wouldn't worry about that if they are replacing the belts. To remove the lower bar/rail, you have to remove the bolt and then the bar needs tilting upwards on an angle to get it out. There's like a slot it goes into, so it just needs a wiggle to get it out.

Yeah cheers *Cries in broken AC compressor* 😂

Fit ARP rod bolts while you're there. Could be one of the causes for letting go, especially at high rpm.

Jubilee method isn't that bad if you have a heavy duty one and preshape it. Imagine there must be a fair bit of pressure involved to lever the alternator back in place to be able to get the top bolt in.

ACF-50 is ok if you keep topping it up. XCP Rustblocker performs better in real world tests.

Not bad, but says next generation, yet they look like old models. If you want the latest, these are a little bit more - https://www.powertoolmate.co.uk/power-tools/milwaukee/cordless-powertool-kits/milwaukee-m18fpp2a3-302p-fuel-m18fpd3-combi-m18fid3-impact-twin-kit-2-x-3ah-high.htm

Get it tested or just replace. Cheap enough for a decent Bosch S4 from Tayna https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s4001/

Not sure on ring specs, I'll see if I've got any documentation on it.

For the head bolts it's 20Nm from the middle outwards. Usually do the first 20Nm and let it settle for a bit and then recheck. Then do 180° if you haven't got a torque angle wrench.

3 times suggests it's not the sump, surely?

Check coilpack and throttle body wiring/plugs. Someone at the track will probably be able to sort it, there always a Clio about. Where are you on?

Is that a random wheel bolt on the front, or is it coming loose?

You could get that pointing straight enough by eye surely.

As if you had 3 s**t ones 😂

I'd send it back.

They'd definitely bend without the pulley locking tool 😅

He's probably not used to the swivel hub setup. He'll soon see for himself if he was to turn the steering.

Don't get the pulley locking tool with Laser kit.

Tell the tester to stop being a dickhead and use his brain. You have them routed correctly. This is factory location.

No mate. If it's a fault with the speedo clock, it could be a faulty solder joint or something internal. As Jon said, the only UCH fault out of the list is potentially the wipers.

The Speedo/Rev clocks

If it looks like Matt's picture then it's normal.

If it doesn't work, just swear at it more 😂