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Good luck!! I managed to get mine lined up first time at the weekend, felt very smug. Engine was on a stand though, and had no VVT to contend with either! 😅

you can normally borrow them from someone in the community. That what I did last weekend.

update And a good one! One thing I had to sort out earlier in the week as the exhaust. Picked up a modified scorpion exhaust a while ago, modded to take a 182 manifold on a 172 system. I might replace it a bit later as its not the prettiest but it'll do. It had an lambda sensor with the wires...

Yeh me too! I basically had to cut my old sump off because I ruined 5 of them. One thing I've learned is that e-torx sockets are not created equal! the higher end ones follow the doming on the head flange much better making it much harder to mash them up! I will never take my head off again...

Yay I can finally join in on this thread again now that mine is back in one piece! Bodywork is pretty rough but it's a track build so who cares!

sounds good! thanks! Thankfully for me I have fuel on its own switch so cranking with no start is easy.

is the thermostat on the return flow from the cooler? surely with this off it will just piss oil out as soon as the engine runs? I probably need to get my head around how these thermostatic plates work. Do they send 100% of the oil out the pump through the cooler? or just bleed a portion off...

Is this a thing? The way I see it the oil cooler will be dry. You can crank the engine to get some oil flow but with the thermostatic sandwich plate this is surely all going to bypass the actual cooler. How do you prime the actual cooler core so it does suddenly open at a certain temperature...

I know rate!! Fate isn't without a sense of irony!

What do we think? I found lining it up and running down the flywheel with three bolts gets it in flush with the face and straight, then it was a case of tapping round the edge until you decide to stop. I got to 2.8-3mm around, that is when the sealing ribs disappear into the block and you can...

I didn't find it horrifically tricky. It was hard to get it to fill properly without just pushing out the top. I think I got it oozing out the sides all the way up but definitely a lot more one side. Ended up smearing the bead a little to maybe catch any gaps. Going to install the cap...

Didn't really take many photos today, but the goal was to finish the engine. Picked up some timing tools from a nice person who lent me some in the morning and set about getting her all timed up. Interestingly the horseshoe was a little tight just getting into one cam, not sure if the slot in...

As I understand it vvt is at its full 16degree advance by about 1600rpm, so really only serving idle. What actually happened, was that I bought the 3422s cheap online without really doing enough research. Followed the catcam direction to change the valve springs and got some headwork while I...

Absence of the aux belt wont trigger anything (other than the battery light). I imagine it will try to detect the key as soon as turn the ignition on and not finding it will mean it wont spark/run the fuel pump, so maybe that is what triggered it. Was that the first time you turned the ignition on?

Might be worth having a look at my thread as I am building something similar! :D. shameless plug: https://cliosport.net/threads/ph1-revival.847226/ One very important thing to note that might ruin your plan is that the 422 cams are not compatible with the standard pistons. The valve overlap is...

That would be my bet, i think solid light means key not detected, doesnt explain why the light would have suddenly come up.

always illuminated even when the ignition is off? As James said it's the immobilizer light. Staying on solid means it's unhappy. Did you have another thread saying your key we mega dead?

Update! So I finally got the block back, taken up to 83mm bore measured to the actual pistons I ordered. Took a little longer as they needed to wait for the pistons to arrive to start work to get them perfect. Look at these beauties! rings all gapped also by the machine shop I'm sure...

This is the answer I was looking for! Now I think about coolant temp sensor and they're basically doing the same thing.

I did a timing belt on my ph1 for the first time recently. Engine was out the car on a stand and I still had a little tantrum on my third try getting it to line up. Got it eventuality only to find cylinder 1 was dead and had to strip the block 😂 I wouldn't say its hard per se, but you try as...

Got my engine back from the machine shop and these plugs appear to have been removed, I'm guessing they're oil plugs for the channels into the jets. does anyone know where I can get new ones? Do they just push in?

does this drain cover have some kind of lip on it? Or does it just push the seal flush with the flywheel mounting face evenly? I have to do this soon and absolutely terrified! Would happy pay money to borrow the correct tool of someone if they have it!

Has anyone experimented with the Diac livery on a MK2?

What is the benefit of measuring the pre-cooled out over post-cooler?

On what grounds?

You guys are an exercise in patience! 😂 Would use a double length fastener so shouldn't be more to loosen, you could argue there is more seal area to fail but still, not a question of the merits of a single plate over a double stack, just in the logic of sensor/cooler order!

I was going to add a caveat banning this specific response! I got the oil cooler sandwich plate second and and already have the sensor plate so would rather not just buy more things.

What order do people run their sandwich plates (assuming they have two)? Most of the ones I've seen are as below, sensor take off first followed by oil cooler: I've been thinking that this doesn't make any sense. Since both plates affect the outer channel of the oil path, and the oil filter...

Thanks, can someone confirm the e-torx size so i can have a look online at options.

like this stuff...