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Also, yikes! Is it meant to be that close? Gna drop PMS an email in the morning and see what they have to say for themselves.

So I fitted all my ARP bolts tonight and the oil pump. Went to fit the sump on (no windage tray but I don't want to leave it open) and it just wouldn't go. It wasn't bottoming out at all, could peak a light in to confirm. It felt more like the pump was fouling on the side of the sump meaning it...

Had a quick check here on an old ph1 ECU. Couldn't detect any meaningful continuity between the pins, maybe a little in the order of Mehaohms.

I can confirm that i do not have that tool. i think my concern is removing the clasp that holds the main bearing and trying to seal that again with the sealant.

Thanks, i think i agree, will do a side by side when the new one comes and that should sort it all!!

It's a tie so far so I've cast my vote to leave to balance it in the way I want! Which tool is that? The one to put the plastic seal on?

i meant to post more pictures than that. Was on my phone. Does that make it easier to confirm? I've bought another one anyway now so will be able to compare when it arrives.

I'm really on the fence about resealing the rear (flywheel) crank seal. I know it's a common leak point and people recommend doing it, but on the other hand this is all the leaking it's done since new (1999) so I'm not sure if it's better to just leave it than disturb it.

I've packed up for today, but can check tomorrow when I get home from work! There's a thread from kitson about gen90 and fuel pump if you want the other half of that list as that only goes half way.

It doesn't want to slot into the gap really at all.

I think I may also have the wrong windage tray, which would track as it's a pretty early ph1. Are you able to confirm from the picture?

Note sure how useful this is but Kitson's GEN90 thread documented the pins on the ph1 ECU (different to the phase 2 because obviously!). It confirms your pin labelling. But surely if the ECU ever bridges pin 28 to 30 the fuse will blow? Which would point me towards an ECU issue? I think I have...

Hijacking this thread a little but i think its old enough that it doesn't matter. Have people got any good experience timing up the 421s with the OEM tool? I have timed mine up but the horse shoe is quite hard to get in. See Vid. It goes in, but with a bit of a push. A friend suggests that this...

Probably a good idea, I've got them for the grinder but wouldn't be able to fit it in the gap. Will invest. Got this as a pattern part from frogjam, there's quite a few sharp burrs on the inside I'll probably take off while I'm at it.

Still not managed to get my sump off, need to borrow a crane so I can remove the flywheel and cut the offending bolt off. So currently have Schrödinger's windage tray. Both the right one and the wrong. How did the modification to your tray go? Also I started to hack up a new sump (assuming my...

tiny update mainly to move my project thread to the top of the list, make sure you dont forget about me init! Really I'm just waiting for the weather to improve before getting back to work. Decided I'm going to do a bit of work on the bottom end. Ideally I would have done this before I rebuilt...

Maybe he was just interest? I've been trying to work out if I want 19" or 20" wheels for my Audi and have frequently stopped by others to see what wheel/tyre they're running. Might get shouted at at some point.

Wow this is mega! Makes me feel like going back and doing mine properly!

If you go for b14 you won't need springs in addition. I think your biggest headache will be compatibility. The RS has completely different front geometry and I think the non-RS version use different bolt spacing for the shock absorbers so I don't think you can fit RS shocks to your hubs...

Im starting to get worried that with all of these ph1 rescue projects the value of them is going to tank ;) Amazing work on the rust! i feel like this is probably on the horizon for me when I get all of the mechanicals sorted

This has always been my attitude. Pretty sure every model of car will have a slightly different theft process and learning one for a seemingly old clio wouldn't be worth the investment, at the end of the day it's all a risk vs reward business and I can't see how it would tot up against a range...

Looks amazing! Would love to have all the body works on mine tidied up! Hard to justify when your build is purely meant to be a track build though.

Not sure how useful it is as the pulleys are different but this is mine using catcams and the catcams stud. How thick is the OEM exhaust pulley? Could it be that the stud is designed to be used only with the catcams pulleys?

I like how you can so visibly see the difference in the picture quality over the years!! This was my ph1 back in 2008! Drove terribly being so low!

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/mocal-billet-sandwich-plate-for-sender-fitment-m-tgasp200x I believe its this one i bought! didnt really want to risk gearbox leaks from an ebay special. My only gripe with it is some of hex fixings on the side demands imperial allen sizes.😤

right yeh i get you now! sorry i thought you meant replacing the original sensor. I guess the only problem you have is making sure you're not hitting anything else, the pressure transducers are fairly chunky. I went for the sandwich plate alternative.

so the switch default to off in the event of an open circuit? As the wiring for the original oil pressure sensor will just have to dange? unless to bridge the connection maybe?

Does this not throw an oil pressure warning light on the clocks?

So many ph1s loitering at the top of the projects forum! :love:, if only the weather was nicer I'd do a token job to bump mine to the top to join you guys. An early example too. Will be following.

If the weather a bit better I'd go and get my sump off to confirm if its a ph1 thing. Unfortuatley I've started renovating my hallway so clio will not be getting a lookin for a couple of months probably.