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The EBay ones really aren’t any good. I tried one first but soon gave in and invested in the genuine tools. You might be able to borrow one if you’re near another forum member. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All the beams are the same yes. Only the stub axles have two variants, 10mm or 18mm (might be 20mm I can’t remember exactly) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always like seeing your work mate. It’s on my list for you to do me one in the not too distant future. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This was mine about 20 years ago. Loved it!

Oh it will be don’t worry! Lots of fibreglass and some carbon fibre. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not exactly. On our pre season test day this year I had intended to do just that. We ran AO50s in the morning and the plan was to switch over after lunch. Unfortunately the engine broke a rocker just before lunch so that was our day over. Hopefully we'll do the same in March. I've been tempted...

I use 195s at the moment which have been fine. Some use 205s though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AO50s aren't road legal. AO52s are.

We use Adams and Page https://adamsandpage.co.uk/ As they sponsor the CSCC who we race with so we get a bit of a discount. £130 sounds about right and if you offset that cost against not needing a set of wets they're good value!

At Combe

I also have a set of R1Rs for wets but I'm about to sell them on because they're only really good in absolutely torrential rain and anything else the AO52s are better. Last outing at Castle Combe we were running rings around most of the 40 car grid, qualifying 3rd until the gearbox failed.

To expand a little. I've been using them since they became available in 15" sizes. They were available in larger sizes for a couple of years before hand and one of my competitors ran 1 set on 16" rims for the entire season, wet and dry. And won the championship.

Yep. Nothing better on the market currently in my opinion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Of mine? Or the OPs? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve changed a roof skin before (after rolling at craners !) It’s not that difficult but the windscreen needs to come out. Then it’s just a case of drilling all the spot welds all round. I bought a complete shell for £50. Removed the roof skin from that and then scrapped the rest. Sent from my...

The J&R code for the cup shaft is DS21 so I don't think you have a cup one. Drive shaft lengths are a minefield though. Do you run a diff? Length is even more critical if you do.

I have run 205s on the front and 195s on the rear on my race car in the past. Obviously better traction with 205s. On the road I doubt you’d notice any difference. BUT Toyo T1Rs are truly awful tires and if you can I’d change those and just get a matching set. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even the cup setup has a place for the pas pump. Pure Motorsport do a pulley wheel to replace the pump so you can run the same belt. Alternatively you may be able to just use a shorter belt but you’d need to check that. I know it works with the non cup alternator bracket but not sure about the...

Yes I could see it was the barrel. Very disappointing as I’ve been waiting for a decent AP option to come along for 15inch wheels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is AP news isn’t good. I’ve been ordering these from Nick this week although he’s out of stock of the discs at the moment. I run both ultraleggeras and 1.2s so I really need these to fit. I hope the 18mm spacers will help but I’d better speak to Nick first. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can connect via CanBus so you may need to see if there is an adapter for the Aim. Certainly you could swap the solo out for an Aim dash which would certainly work. Gems may be able to help you who make the Gen90 for ktec Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I was thinking too!

There’s a few of us on here been racing for a few years. Always good to welcome a new racer! A wealth of knowledge on here too ready to be exploited. Good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’ve removed that one then you definitely need an inline fuse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re not changing the existing fuses in the engine bay then everything will still be protected by them. If not then I run a 100amp in-line fuse in mine but then I don’t have any other fuses in the car, only a pdm which protects the individual circuits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I assumed you had coil overs or lowering springs. If those are standard springs I’d suggest they’re broken. If someone has fitted lowering springs before you owned it, have a look and see if there’s an adjusting ring on the lower spring perch. You may be able to raise it that way. Someone else...

3 options really. Raise it slightly. It does look quite low, raising should also help with better turn in. Fit some shims to increase neg camber. This will almost certainly cure it. And 3, roll the arches. Any combination of the above of one option doesn’t work. Sent from my iPhone using...

Could try Harlow Jap Autos. A guy I race with has the largest Uk collection of Skylines among other cars and swears by them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk