This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Basically just stick the hosepipe into every possible orifice & start blasting
Top of the thermostat housing is the sensor for the gauge
The 1 pointing towards the bulkhead is a fan switch
And the one pointed towards the wheel arch is for the ecu
The rust is pretty common inside the coolant passages and it's especially worse when people use tap water
My preferred method for flushing these is fill up with the cheapest nastiest shittiest concentrate coolant you can possibly find, then drive it for a bit, drain it, flush with a hosepipe...
To quote the advert
"It was previously owned for a number of years by a TV / film production company and they had it resprayed from original brooklands green to the champagne gold it is now and I believe it is the only 16v in this colour as it wasn't an original 19 16v executive colour. I was...
As for the metal repairs, sills are still widely available, the jacking points are as well but I only know of the ones available in the UK and obviously Bordanova for the rear quarters.
The inner sill structures will be the biggest issue with the repairs, you can use Renault 5 GTT repair parts...
The VIN is also stamped onto the suspension tower on the passenger side of the engine bay and I'm fairly sure the colour code for the paint is part of that number
The paint finish on the bumper looks just as good if not better than what it was from the factory so you're all good 👌
As for the brake discs, since they're nla you can use 172 discs which are 280mm or bin the caliper spacers and drop back down to the standard discs
I've recently bought a wet & dry vacuum from SGS for my workshop
f**k knows what features it's got but it's wheels are a nice colour match to my track car wheels 😁
They've got their own F7R that's a development of the Williams F7R (completely different cylinder head) and the later versions were different again (chain driven oil pump) which were eventually developed into the F4R
The really late ones had a de-tuned F4R in them, 140bhp iirc
Not off the top of my head. I do know that when fitting 172 brakes & hubs onto a mk1 some people have the stubs machined so they fit the mk1 shocks & I think it's something like 2mm off each side
If you're saying it's like that, it means that I'll deffo lose my rag & just set fire to the car 🤣
Sounds like I'm committed to taking the box off..................................yay :cry:
When going into 5th gear at anything above 40mph I'm getting a lovely little crunch so need to work out a plan to fix it.
Is it possible to fix it still in the car or if the box has to come off the car can it still be fixed just from removing the end cap or is it a full blown split the box...
Aaaaahhh the good old days :love:
I paid a bit more but my best 1 was having the MOT done in Bristol while the car was in hundreds of pieces in Nottingham 🤣