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Another https://www.renomotive.com/product-page/used-renault-megane-mk3-rs-250-yellow-dot-recaro-seats

Any pics of how its looking? From a few angles just to add context. The belt going back on is longer, so something must not set up correctly - but hard to make suggestions without seeing

It's a real pain in the ass, but you know that already :LOL:

I'm using a T-mex Stainless Steel Worm Drive Hose Clips 70-120mm from screwfix. Annoyingly you have to buy 10, but they work.

Shouldn't be loose - 21nm is the tightening torque so just nipped up

I removed the bungs and used a washer underneath to stop the mechanism getting stuck on the carpet. Not a huge difference, but makes it a nicer place to be. The nuts are fairly out the way for water ingress, no issues in the 6+ years since doing it - I think using a washer also 'seals' the gap...

Nah looks awful, I should buy it instead.... It seems doable, just got to make sure the angle sensor is cable tied to stop it rotating out of alignment.

It looks great and that's why I am avoiding it. There are other things I should be doing 😅

TBF the car is quite easy to work on after you remove everything around the thing you want to get out. I did buy the car to spanner on... So right into the deep end I go. New bracket ordered as well as a Halfords worth of spanners, should have it back together in a couple of days. At least...

I have a lot in common with timing covers

@Brigsy From what I can see it is attached to the top of the PAS mount which shouldn't be too hard to get too (by removing the alternator and the PAS pump) *In the meantime

@YorkshireKyle recommended it to me to protect the timing cover - so to answer your question it should do, personally I am yet to do it myself

Yes for AC + HPAS. I have an SKF one and a Gates one and they are both decent. As long as it's a known brand you should be alright - hopefully somebody can chip in with specific recommendations if they have them.

Thought I would wack the tensioner in while I'm waiting on spanners. Bottom bolt fine, middle bolt fine, top bolt starts to grip then spins... The threads in the mount have turned to cheese. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel but it's not getting any brighter.

Genuine belt is 1662 but 1665 is close enough and gives you more slack to fit. I'm about to sling a 5pk1665 on mine.

I do have a spanner to socket adapter but that doesn't fit either 🙃 The other issue is that even if it did fit by the time the bolt is wound out 5mm then it's wedged on the frame and nothing is moving Swan neck would be the sensible first try

Tensioner doesn't seem seized, but there is rubbing on the spring so it needs to go. Out with the old and in with the new. Or not, as there is no cunting room. Lifting the engine shortens the gap. I could try lifting the gearbox but CBA. Don't think there would be enough room and I would...

I sacked mine off years ago but this is such a good idea. I think I have a few stalks knocking about in a box somewhere...

You can also tap into the squib connector to install CC. (I don't have a squib with black cruise wire from the clock ring)

https://cliosport.net/threads/k-tec-renault.850256/ Join the club by the look of it

Currently day five of the estimated seven, good to see some things are going to plan though. The fob was an relatively easy fix! Could have tested it using diode mode 👀

Keys are programmed to the UCH I think? The immobiliser ring just checks the key on behalf of the UCH. Maybe even the BCM too - *full kit to replace:

I tried FetLife for belt experts but they redirected me here. Pulleys all in line and no obvious damage, PAS pump and tensioner idler have slight movement to them. My spare PAS pump also seems to have this movement, waiting on replacement tensioner to check that. To me it seems the belt is...

@Brigsy If EPAS doesn't feel right then electro hydraulic was next on the list. Just like EPAS, lots say its perfect and others need higher output alternators etc to keep up with its demand... And the units themselves are huge aren't they - makes sense in a stripped track car but for road not so...

SKF tensioner kit and 5PK belt comes in at £120. Better thank paying £200 for the 'genuine' plus extra belt, that seems to be SKF anyway. (PMS sell it at least) I may live in the south but maybe I was northerner in another life I love me a bargain. And this just arrived: 2.5 turns lock to...

@MAXRUNDOWN That's a much better write up, I think I was just happy to not have PS fluid pissing everywhere. Cup PAS pump placement is so much better than standard! All this being said I am collecting the parts to run dci EPAS rack. The kit is much better than a failing pipe but I don't think...

@MrBlonde Kits great, easy to fit if you have the engine out but massive PITA if you are doing it in situ. The main pains where: I had to undo the two small pipes on the rack to get spanner access to the HP line My HP line union was seized so had to run an angle grinder through it and bend it...

I wish everything @Brigsy says was legally enforceable. It would save everyone on the forum a lot of time.

The horseshoe tool for the cams is the most important to get genuine if money is tight. This set is £200 on eBay right now, might be worth shooting Ozzy or Dann a message and see if you could borrow - would be cheaper in the long run and know the tools are bang on

A non-genuine tool must still line up with the same keys/locations to a genuine one. Looks like this one? Which I hope it isn't as it's for the wrong engine. Do you have a link to where you bought it?