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Handsaw..dont be lazy

Thats the downside to running older cars sadly..once oem parts dissappear your stuck with aftermarket parts which never last as long. Finding this on my clio dci of same vintage.

Refurbed calipers could be the issue, pads slack or whatever. Im sure @Bowz had issues with them on his

I fixed this issue on a 172 rear under braking. Im sure it was loose rear pads or seized sliders, i sorted it by changing the rear discs and pads. Grease the sliders, check bolt torque on the caliper, check rear wheel bearing for play and maybe retorque hub nut. Take pads out and grease up the...

Flashing eml usually indicates injector faults. The starting issue will be related to fuel pump/regulator, regulator not holding pressure overnight. Turn ign on and off a couple of times to prime fuel system before starting. If its running ok and not misfiring badly, drive it to AW

Citric acid solution could be the one to clear the rust out of the block.

Good nick for mileage, colour is awful

A bit of alloy pipe welded onto the compressor housing, to extend the hsoe fitting, angled to clear the exhaust manifold would work and give you a little more room to move actuator.

Worth checking the teeth on the starter are same / equal to the old one and that the dowel has been refitted to locate it. As for bad running look for wiring disturbed in the same area, lambda, throttle etc

Last week i also changed the heater controls on the Kangoo. Mine were tired/damaged and the illumination has never worked despite changing bulbs ages ago, which was annoying when night driving. Quick half hour job he says. Start taking the cables off the heater panel that are held in with a...

Updates Been chasing an intermittent misfire on this for a while now. Most of the time its clean but does the odd jolt at part throttle/higher rpms etc. As the R8 coils are known to fail i thought it was worth changing for new and try some expensive iridium sparks to replace the copper. I...

Whats the verdict from Mick? Rack shot ?

Oem for rear discs, they include bearing. Stub axles dont generally need replacing.

Change the runners i guess. They just bolt onto the seat base & not sport specific.

Check the bolts are torqued / tight before condemning them. Ive had a shock come loose on another car and had similar light knocking, went with a retorque

Yeah if stock pads then change for new. Are the current discs really worn?

Ate super blue is now known as ATE typ200 /clear fluid. Ok for fast road use, but if track then go for something better.

Pick a set of rear discs with bearings in, oem renault is best for them if available. You will need a windback tool for rear calipers.

The cable shift is quite nice on the jr box from memory too. Do it😁

If thats the case, be doable pretty easy if adequate clearance.

I dont think any of the jb/jc diesel boxes are hydraulic, all cable. If your doing hydraulic clutch, do the full lot inc jr box now.

I have also had noisy bearings with no play. Hold the spring whilst spinning the wheel to check for vibration. Also older/worn tyres get noisy

Mega, my guess was pretty good😁. Am i right in saying your limited rpm wise on oem software?

Any updates??

Aye track use (like current front ferodo pads😶‍🌫️). One day i might get it to Croft😄 Its got quite a bit of rear bias like most modern stuff. When i took it round Anglesey it took 50% of the rear pads in 3x short sessions.

Updates Picked up another megane g series tubular exhaust manifold up last week. Made by CSK race exhausts for custom production. Welding on it is sexy as f**k. Bought this incase my nortech one cracks again on the kangoo when we push a bit more power. I cant see it lasting too long as its...

Need more info on engine etc. If your talking 172 - stock cams with adequate turbo and related mods, are good for 500+hp

The larger discs are the old ktec big brake conversion or a copy of it, using extender brackets and renault 21 txe discs from memory. The pad only using the outer surface is normal for this kit. I believe the discs for this kit are pretty much nla everywhere now, and when i ran them, i didnt...

This one below. The plastic on metal rattle on drivers side one was bad until nipped tight.

Cutting bolts off speaks volumes about the garage sadly, subframe bolts simple pop the cage off and gun out with cranked spanner on top.