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What are people using for small parts storage? I've been using these for years: But they keep updating and adding features and now they seem to be about £30 each which is about 3x what I'd like. £££ What's everyone else using? Cheers

Some of the cars in the background, and their respective ages at the time are cool!

Does your code scanner let you view the live data from the lambda as a graph? High CO and the lambda off scale suggests there's something funny going on with the engine/fuelling rather than just a dead cat I would think - but happy to be proven wrong!

old/malfunctioning lambda sensors - if not replaced recently I'd replace the front one. Defective coolant temperature sensor causing enrichment - Check with an OBD2 scanner Poor thermostat preventing temperature reaching the correct operating range - parcel in check with above CAT not being hot...

This, I think the last time I used tools on a car to get home was when my bora spat the innards out of the turbo on Stelvio. Clamped the oil feed and switched the inlet pipework around and finished the trip with no boost. Since then I've always made it home, up until a month ago when the Z3...

£700 for my current one when I bought it in 2017. Needed a battery, tyres and an MOT along with all the usual niggly clio faults that needed sorting. 2 weeks driving later it spat the crank oil seal, produced a massive smokescreen and contaminated the clutch

Rear beam bushes

It's a brave new world. Policing driving without regard for context, or correctness of data reporting. I think I've probably peaked at 2019 registration year and I can find no excitement for modern cars at all.

Depending on when the belt was done, how the cars been stored and whether you're paying for the work to be done or doing it yourself, I'd just do the belt, it's time expired, not mileage. Certainly I'd leave the dephasor (plenty will disagree). Tensioner and idler rollers I'd inspect for rust...

Yeah agreed! Battery voltage is good, and I've tried it with a battery charger connected to elevate it a little too. Main earths are also good (battery to body is new, gearbox to body was cleaned up when the box was out for a recent clutch, Main engine loom to body shares a post with the...

I'm not sure I follow, most alternators are fed +12v to excite them (and the battery light is in circuit) and once generating the bulb sees +14v from both sides and the light goes out - so the 'exciter wire', alternator control, warning lamp are all the same thing. Does this work differently...

Edit: Who knew there was a time limit on editing posts? Not me. Could a kind admin overwrite the first post for me? Hi everyone, I have some strange faults on my 2002 172 ph2 which may or may not be related, so bundling them here for advice 1) My alternator exciter wire is live all the time...

Hi everyone, I have some strange faults on my 2002 172 ph2 which may or may not be related, so bundling them here for advice 1) My alternator exciter wire is live all the time, I posted about this previously [here] and haven't found the fault, I've simply left it unplugged meantime and the...

Do the resistance values check out for the buttons?

If you dont use it often, no matter the quality of the battery, you will forget to disconnect or trickle charge it and kill it. Halfords battery, find someone with a trade card. I'll take a 3 year warranty over a (maybe) higher quality battery in the circumstances.

The little folding cylindrical thing that goes on the end of the selector on the underside of the box? If so I've already replaced that

@Louis this sort of thing? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166240315870

I've got the usual play in the gearstick in my clio and I'd like to address it but not sure how best to and most threads are from a while back. I had a BMS Shifter on my track car in the past but these (along with megane scenic housings) seem to have dried up Yanoo's stiff shift seems to have...

Hi Folks, My 2002 Ph2 172 started flattening its battery, some investigation later and there was a 4A drain over the alternator (measured between the alternator post and the large charging cable). I fitted a used alternator, which seemed to be working at first, but got extremely hot and...

Epic purchase JIm! Very cool indeed, very jealous!

Did you ever finish this @Daniel ?

Those weren't new 3k ago IMHO. That said, they also shouldn't have needed changed on a 22k car, from the electrode shape they're iridium or platinum or similar long life plug - Google reckons ILFR7X8G which fits with the picture. Change interval on a stock car should be 40k+ miles.

Dunno how I missed the radiator opening was to the right either! (rather than the bulkhead)

Renault 21 quadra passenger side chassis leg/inner arch, recognise one anywhere 🧐 :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Looks like great work, I suspect a good number are worse nowadays and it's a pity when it spreads enough to kill off the car

Obviously your engine builder knows more as they have the bits, but when the engine was first build I'd hope it was bored to suit the new pistons? So any used block that still runs should also be suitable to take to the first overbore size. Unless someone just honed it and fitted stock size...

Is the piston badly scored? If not it might be cheaper to replace the block and bore to suit your current pistons.

I have the same, I decided I didn't want the weight of the larger one all the time.

On one side of the argument, I'd say that all went west a long time ago and most modern cars lack driver focus. On that current trend even if ICE was to continue, they'll be numb and heavy and muted. On the other side of the argument, if what you care about it a shouty, loud ICE engine, then...

Again though, unless you actually dig into the guts of an engine rebuild, it's irrelevant. All new ICE cars now have multiple ECUs and modules which need coding, down to things like handbrake actuators and there's pretty much always a way. There are plenty of people who own and maintain or...