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Epic purchase JIm! Very cool indeed, very jealous!

Did you ever finish this @Daniel ?

Those weren't new 3k ago IMHO. That said, they also shouldn't have needed changed on a 22k car, from the electrode shape they're iridium or platinum or similar long life plug - Google reckons ILFR7X8G which fits with the picture. Change interval on a stock car should be 40k+ miles.

Dunno how I missed the radiator opening was to the right either! (rather than the bulkhead)

Renault 21 quadra passenger side chassis leg/inner arch, recognise one anywhere 🧐 :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Looks like great work, I suspect a good number are worse nowadays and it's a pity when it spreads enough to kill off the car

Obviously your engine builder knows more as they have the bits, but when the engine was first build I'd hope it was bored to suit the new pistons? So any used block that still runs should also be suitable to take to the first overbore size. Unless someone just honed it and fitted stock size...

Is the piston badly scored? If not it might be cheaper to replace the block and bore to suit your current pistons.

I have the same, I decided I didn't want the weight of the larger one all the time.

On one side of the argument, I'd say that all went west a long time ago and most modern cars lack driver focus. On that current trend even if ICE was to continue, they'll be numb and heavy and muted. On the other side of the argument, if what you care about it a shouty, loud ICE engine, then...

Again though, unless you actually dig into the guts of an engine rebuild, it's irrelevant. All new ICE cars now have multiple ECUs and modules which need coding, down to things like handbrake actuators and there's pretty much always a way. There are plenty of people who own and maintain or...

How many people actually 'fix' their own engine or gearbox anyway? The rest is very much the same as any other car

Horseshit :ROFLMAO: with electric cars having performance requires having range as cell discharge rate is a huge factor.

I need to replace my rear axle lines and given they're half the cost and stainless, these are very tempting over replacing them with OE hard lines with crimped flexi tails. Has anyone used them? Do they fit properly? Thanks

That looks like a huge amount of fun!

@Porl these are what I fitted to replace the knackered bearings. Easy job if i recall, circlip on the bottom and pressed into the housing. GEH20ES-2RS SKF Spherical Bearing 20mm Steel/Steel - WychBearings.co.uk Check the dimensions suit your mounts, I dont recall if mine were KTR or PMS or...

It's unmistakable as theres nothing to dull it like a balljoint or TRE, its a 'connected' metallic knocking over bumps like a drop link on a typical car but 1000 times worse

Cheap parts, cheap insurance, cheap tyres, xenons, cruise control, amusing handling and mid 30s mpg, I certainly would!

Not really. There is a metal splash shield below them if I recall to keep the worst away and I got SKF 'sealed' bearings with lip seals but be prepared for fairly regular changes, preceeded by a knocking noise that'll make you cringe

It's annoying, the stock arrangement is awful, but the Ktec style solution uses a spherical bearing with limited protection which is prone to wear once it gets wet/dirty. I ran them on my track car and they were great once I'd replaced the knackered bearings with some genuine SKF ones. Not...

Possible, but they were working when parked and look fine and haven't been disturbed. Fronts were cracked and I suspect water ingress whilst sitting so I replaced them. Will check out the plugs and check resistance on all four and see.

I've driven it a few hundred yards on a private road, but can't do more without an MOT. Odds are one of the new, non gen front sensors is faulty out of the packet...

Okay, so I can chase the fault with faith then when I've fixed it, it will go away. That's a good start. After being stood for some time, when I started the car the ABS and serv lights were on. During the front end refresh I cleaned and inspected the front rings and fitted two new sensors. I've...

I know the 172 does a self-check on the ABS system when you start it. Does it have any capacity to store long term faults and disable this? I.e. if you have fixed the fault will the light definitely go out? Or can it become stuck and need reset with CLIP? Thanks

I approve of this

300.1

I've got a set of old Dunlop gauges which are great. I hate misaligned cars and the days of getting it done for £30 have gone here now. Just means whenever the cars have been in bits they can be put back right straight away, new stuff can be checked etc.

Excellent, commendable behaviour!

Oh no! That's my fear, okay if things are nice and tidy but I'd need to sort my life out for that to be the case :ROFLMAO: What ferrous lacework have you invested in now?

Looking good! Just how bad is the overspray on the rest of the garage? This sort of thing always gives me the fear! 😬