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You probably want to use more than just the hardline clips to hold your braided hose. You can decide that based on the condition of the hard lines. Checked mine when I had the gearbox out. What are you suggesting? My Clio actually runs braided hoses.

Wobbly braided lines zip tied to the axle look great? Braided brake hoses fail plenty, but you are unable to inspect them properly to prevent it. Yes I can make a pipe with an aftermarket hose, but I specifically wondered if another set up that was still available from Renault would fit...

Because braided line are softer than hardline. They're at a higher risk of moving into the path of something that will damage them. There's also other long term things like you can't tell how deteriorated the rubber is under the steel braid. And personally I've just replaced the NSR with...

I don't like the accepted practice of replacing the rear axle hardlines with 3 feet of braided flexi. Is there an alternative that someone has worked out fits from another twist beam axled Renault with disc brakes? There surely can't be that much variation between them.

I ended up sourcing a secondhand one. I contacted Renault who said they couldn't confirm that it would fit. Add it to the growing list of NLA parts that are making these cars more and more difficult to maintain

Mine retired from daily duty 3 years ago though I lived in Leicester at the time, based in Carmarthenshire now. at the minute it's in the garage safe from the salt, busy dreaming up new electrical faults I imagine!

Failing SAS seems to be a common problem on the Clio 2 RS. It seems nigh on impossible to even get second hand sensors, and then you're still buying a 17yo part at best. But the Dacia part 479454516R shows a remarkable resemblance to the 182 part 8200058692. Anybody have any experience with...

Just an update if this comes up in the future when someone is searching for it on google. One of the solder joints on one of the windings had failed, on a brand new alternator! Effectively only had 2 of 3 phases, once you started loading up the alternator it would drop from 14v to 12v. Easily...

Can be caused by a lot of things, in my case a dead ECU 👍. But, assuming that all components were fine before the shell swap, I would first go through all the connectors that you've disturbed. Were you careful removing the wiring harness through the bulkhead?

It's quite involved. My pump sits where the standard battery would go. So the battery is now in the boot. You would need to make a bracket to hold the pump as well. I used the standard low pressure return hose and an AN hose for my new high pressure line. I also have a cooling loop from an mx5...

You can always ditch the belt driven hydraulic pump for an electric one. Then you don't mess with the steering ratios, and dont have weird feeling EPAS. I've used one from a 106 gti, but there are plenty of options.

The hammer to get it out of gear is worrying, maybe it is more sinister than the linkage. He was trying to hammer the rusty piece in this photo forward and back, not into the gearbox (up and down)?

I suspect the clamp bolt hasn't been done up for some reason and the linkage has slid apart like you said.

It's definitely part of the gearbox that's broken rather than the linkage? Are you able to post a picture?

Wow! That's impressive. I've just had mine in bits and that's a chunky piece of steel. Did it break at the weld? I've seen a few come up on the Clio sport for sale page on facebook recently if you haven't looked there?

Can you still drive it in said stuck gear? Basically does the clutch still work and the gearbox still spin the wheels? Definitely check the linkage as mentioned above, it's fairly vulnerable on the underside of the car.

Have you owned a 1*2 before? I ask because normal idle for a Clio 2 RS is quite lumpy 👍

That's fair, just try it with the battery first. Don't forget to buy a multimeter 😊

Don't waste your money on a starter yet!

Not necessarily, just chucking jump leads on a dead car won't make it start if the battery is truly fubar. Most jump leads are of poor quality the jaws of which make poor connections that are only designed to help a tired battery. You can, as has been suggested, leave the jump leads on for half...

Causing the temp gauge to read strangely? Maybe. But I would post a video of your rough idle if you can, it could be a case of "they all do that sir".

That your battery is really dead. Do you have a multimeter? Or can you swap the battery from the other car?

So if you attach the jump leads the problem goes away? Or if you attach the jump leads you can get the starter solenoid to click?

The idle is quite rough anyway. Especially if you're used to refined modern machines. They're all a bit rubbish for the first 2 minutes of running. I imagine it's a result of the calibration for cold start emissions. My temp gauge sits slightly above the middle on a hot day in traffic and just...

I was just explaining what dynamic toe is as it is influenced by your spacers but I don't think it would cause the issue you're seeing. If you've only changed the spacers and calipers between now and perfect tyre wear, is it possible to run without the spacers? Or are they there for clearance?

Dynamic toe changes are not static toe. It is part of the suspension's compliance characteristics. These are changes in wheel position under load, controlled by how the various components in your suspension bend etc. You will typically gain toe out and lose caster when braking, and...

I sent you a link to a calculator that can work out the theoretical differences between tyre sizes. You can then decide what you want to do. Mine lives on its 15s I can't really be bothered to chuck the 16s back on it. They don't feel too small, the Clio is hardly a long distance cruiser anyway.

195/50R15 will be a cheaper tyre, which is the main motive for moving to 15 inch wheels. As far as changes to the rolling radius of the wheel go, I'd be very suprised if you'd be able to tell. https://tiresize.com/calculator/

I thought you said you did not drive to the limit? 😉 Your spacers will increase the dynamic toe changes you see under acceleration and braking, but I wouldn't have thought it would be that significant.

Just double check everything is tight before running down the rabbit hole of broken box. What was changed on the Suspension?