Search results

I started this the other day, and just out of interest there are actually 4 at the bulkhead - there’s some kind of metal block (pressure relief valve or summat perhaps?) with two pipes in and two out, each with an o-ring. This is where I had initially spotted leakiness, so have only done these...

Not too bad then, hope there’s suitable rings in here ^

Thank you, that’s reassuring. Perhaps my kit comes with surplus o-rings ‘cos there’s about 20 of them :confused:?!

I have a leaky air con system & so I have bought a seal kit - a bunch of brown coloured o-rings - can anyone offer advice on fitting these? Do I just make my way round each and every join and replace the seal? I can't find a guide anywhere, and it seems like a daunting task! Any help greatly...

After searching for yonks and finally spanking £50 odd quid to get a 1/43 scale flamer model shipped from Israel, another has come up on eBay for a fraction of the price. Thought I’d give those who are interested a heads up...

I refitted mine with the steering wheel at the wrong angle, this was enough to set off the traction light. So it may be nothing to do with having the incorrect boss ?

No issues, it was straight forward: I pulled the stereo out by using thin Allen keys instead of a stereo removal tool (you obviously need to do this to get the fascia off, but also to access the 2 screws holding the climate panel in place). Once removed you’ll see the stereo has a torx screw...

Using this method I’ve now done all the dash bits that went sticky. I dismantled the stereo & climate control units to make sure I didn’t get the electronic bits wet. It’s mint now! Thanks op! Btw I got ‘Elbow Grease’ for 95p, chortle ?!

I doubt it’ll change the stiffness. That’ll be the springs/fingers in the clutch plate weakening over the years, I would imagine.

Where are the spacers, are they on the end of the clutch cable by the gearbox? If so surely that would cause a higher biting point because you’re reducing pedal travel by effectively shortening the cable ?.

Will do, car’s not parked local to me, so might be a few days ?

Interesting if it has been swapped, it’s made it a quick accelerating car! Where on the casing can I find the numbers? Thanks ?

At Snetterton last year I was hitting the limiter in 4th and had to change up to 5th on the long straight. Despite this my top speed was still less than my mate in his 182, and he didn’t even hit the limiter in 4th. So for comparison I made a side by side video of my car against a 172 Clio Cup...

I have a torque wrench, but it's a bit big and cumbersome and awkward to use. It also means carrying another relatively heavy tool round with me to track days etc. So I've come across these digital torque adapters, like this one for...

Are you struggling with how it fits to the bumper, or to the car, or both?

I fitted my new filter yesterday and it really wasn't a struggle. Maybe Ash have changed the specification the swages? It did make me think what purpose the ridge had, so I cut it off ?. However, at the other end the swage sits neatly in the 'groove' of plastic bend from throttle body.

Wish I'd bought non-swaged now ?

I think I used a thin smear of vaseline ??

I've not done it in two years, but I've just ordered myself a replacement filter so will see what the score is when I come to fit it. I remember it being tight and using a bit of lube to help. I presume when you ordered the ASH pipe you specified the correct diameter?

I’ve since realised there’s something odd going on with mine too, it whipped off the hubnuts on my Clio and the hubnuts on my wife’s car no bother, and hasn’t struggled with track rod ends, lower ball joints, rusted fence post bolts, anything/everything! But then it occasionally struggles with...

As you know, I’ve recently changed my N/S shaft twice and am a little precious about it, so I have been checking it regularly. Mine has stayed dry in about 500 miles and a trackday.

Well I’ve just fitted new inner tie rods and I had to get cheapos because I needed them quickly for a trackday. It turned out they were exactly the same as the ones I took off, which looked quite new with little rust/corrosion of the arms & threads etc, perhaps suggesting they hadn’t been on...

I used a “bent & cut to shape” metal bracket and another jubilee clip. I bolted it to the body as in pic....

This is what I bought: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/90-Degree-Alloy-Elbow-Bends-Aluminium-Lightweight-Metal-Pipe-Swaged-Polished/392443640300? (70mm external diameter, swaged ends, 150mm leg length) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390629059729 It all fitted together nicely and no other purchases...

https://www.cliosport.net/threads/182-doesnt-start-first-time-but-will-second-time.808392/ I had this issue. Even though my battery seemed to have enough poke to turn the engine over easily, I charged it fully (as mentioned in this thread) and it has started first time ever since.......worth a...

I don’t think so, I recently did my n/s driveshaft (twice ??), I only remember it being one piece....so probably ripped/torn like you said.

Doesn’t the rubber boot bolted to the gearbox prevent the oil from leaking out ??

I’ve now done the driveshafts on my Clio twice, and the clutch on my wife’s Micra twice too! The cheap battery eBay one (£70-£75) has been amazing! Popped the hub nuts off and everything else I’ve thrown at it without difficulty. If you’re only in need of occasional use then I’d highly recommend...

I think only the 172 Cup had boggo standard seats. The 182 “full fat/cup packed” model still had the half leather/alcantara seats with a full complement of airbags.

Standard 172: 48.5 172 Cup: 38.5 Standard & FF 182: 45