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So just to close this up, I can say, the Clio didn't survive. I've sold most of the parts, still got some for sale, such as the Gripper LSD gearbox, and the engine. I'll post up an add on here at some point, but shipment is bit of an issue, as I'm based in the Netherlands...

Amazing thread, just read it all from start to finish over the last couple of days. So you say the cylinderhead you use, are the same on basically al the 6-cylinder E36's? So the 323, 325 and 328 all have the same cylinder head that will flow above 300 hp? That's quite amazing.

But it's not that bad either. A stripped out Clio is also around 60/40.

I can only think of the tyre and brake wear with all that weight. 😅

What do you do when you've wrecked your car, and you have no time to fix it? Exactly, you bring the daily. :p I upgraded the brakes a bit with some Ferodo DS2500's. I also bought a set of Bilstein B6 Damptronic shocks with Eibach Pro springs. They arrived yesterday, so they are not fitted...

Use a centre punch, or drill a small hole (not going through the second skin) before you use this one.

Thanks Joey. 👍 Time wise, I'm pretty sure I'll not be on track this year anymore. Other projects at home will take up most of my time, and the front end will be quite a project as well. 😉

I'm definately not an aero specialist, but I can understand why a wing produces downforce, as the air that passes underneath has to make a longer distance, so it speeds up. Higher velocity means lower air pressure. A V6 spoiler to me looks like a big air dam. Surely it will produce downforce...

So I've decided to fit a wing on the back, to get the back-end a bit more stable. I've looked at BYC and the TrackAero ones, but apart from the price, I don't like how they are mounted to the bootlid, as the forces are not directed straight to the chassis. I've also decided to start on the...

Today I had a little bit time to take of the body panels, and have a first glance at the damage. When taking of the wheels, I noticed my right wheel had hit the stabilizer bracket, and a small piece of aluminium had been stripped of the inside of the wheel. I don't know if I can still use this...

Thanks for the positive feedback, and stay tuned. 😉👍

Well, the initial oversteer wasn't caused by lifting. I might have made it worse by lifting after though, but I can't really remember that. It all happened in a fraction, and by the time I was really aware of the situation, I was just a passenger and it seemed best to me to just hit the brakes.

The line was really good actually, I hit the Apex on the inside, and was already accelerating to the outside. Don't stop following this thread though. 😉

Not really sure what I'm going to do, but looks like a reshell.

I'm okay, mostly gutted about the car.

Sad news, the Clio is history. :cry::cry: So yesterday was my first trackday with the new gearbox with Gripper diff. And it changed the car dramatically. I had so much grip in the front, that my back didn't know what to do with it. Weather conditions were far from ideal, cold and windy...

Found a replacement ECU with the immobilizer deleted, and a map from Fastchip on it. I also had some trouble aligning my gear linkage. Turned out my DIY engine mount was in the way, so we modified it a bit. Next trackday, this Saturday. :cool: :cool:

Found a replacement ECU with the immobilizer deleted, and a tuning from Fastchip on it. Hopefully, this will be the last post in this thread, and I'm able to enjoy my oncoming trackday this Saturday. :cool:

Most likely, you need to adjust your gear linkage. 👍

Isn't this the ph1 pin out? Or is ph2 the same?

Well, it didn't. o_O In summary after this, I changed the crank sensor, I changed the complete wiring loom. It all didn't help. Eventually, I got hold of a ph1 immo free ECU, and that solved it. Because I got tyred of disconnecting the battery every time, I installed a main cut-off switch...

It's fixed. :):) I changed the ECU, and this sorted the problem. I've had the car running for a longer period about 3 times now, and it will restart, and run just fine. Still need to get a final solution as I now have a borrowed ECU on mine, but shouldn't be to much of a problem.

I picked up another loom yesterday evening. Installed it this morning. Looks like a mess, but it all works. Car started, and ran for 12 minutes. I was able to restart it twice in that time frame before it stalled, and I wasn't able to start it anymore. So changing the loom didn't resolve the...

Just a quick update. I'm using this thread as a log as well. So, the crank sensor has been replaced by the updated blue one. Part numbers from the ECU. I seem to have a very early version, as all the others I can find online are a Sirius 32N instead of a Sirius 32. I've also made a...

My lightened tailgate with polycarbonate window is about 7 kg's if I'm correct.

I also notice that when the car wants to start, the shift light on the dash lights up, and when it doesn't want to start, it doesn't. Anybody got a clue what this means?

So tonight it started again, and died after 1 minute. And it didn't want to start again. But this time I was able to measure current going out of the actuator relay. I saw that after the engine died, there was still going 13v out of the actuator relay for a short while, than the relay clicked...

I installed the updated blue crank sensor with loom, and still the same. ACtronics doesn't know the part number of the ECU, so they refused to check the ECU. I'm leaning more and more to bin it all and going standalone. 🙄

This morning the car started again. After 1 or 2 minutes it started to run rough, shortly after that it died. It didn't want to start anymore. I bypassed all the actuator relay wires to rule that out, it didn't make any difference. Later today I can collect the crank sensor. If that doesn't...

You mean in the fuse box compartment?