E36 3.0 ITB Race Build

[f0xy]

Before instructing the machine shop to remove material from the top of the block surface, I measured the 'actual' capacity of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head. This was previously original, and has only had a light skim (3 thou). 'The internet' says this should be 36cc, when in fact, its actually 33cc.

This then allowed for an actual calculation for static compression, considering I already know every other component spec.

Standard deck height is 210mm, mine was slightly under this already from previous skims, but to maximize the compression with the components I am going to be using I worked out it would be possible to drop the deck height to 209mm. All things considered, this will net an effective static compression ratio of 12.45:1 using a standard headgasket with enough clearance between piston and head. Stock compression ratio would normally be 10.2:1.

The machine shop removed the material, along with the boring/honing to suit the new pistons.

I am using 'Maxpeedingrods' connecting rods in this build, as they are well used and reviewed across the board now and offer ridiculous value in reality. In the mean time of the machine work being done I had torqued up the H-beam connecting rods to spec (with ARPs) and checked them for roundness. No issue with any of them, and all perfectly round, within 0.004mm. Some of the standard M54 rods were up to 0.030mm out of round!

The block was then collected...

Before beginning to assemble it I wanted to drill and tap an area near the oil pump chain, allowing me to use an oil pump chain tensioner from now on as they do not have one from factory. The chain runs fairly slack normally, and can generate strange vibrations if you push through to higher RPM. It may not be nessecary, but when the BMW part is only £12, I decided to do it for peace of mind this time.

To ensure the holes were drilled in the correct place (and square) I drew up and 3D printed a small jig based from the existing holes in the block, so I could bolt it on and drill through in one go.

After drilling for the tensioner, the whole block was scrubbed and jet washed to ensure any left over debris/dirt was removed. After drying with an airline the bores/surfaces were oiled.

 

[f0xy]

Next job was to check the main journal bores for roundness with the main caps torqued down. These were fine as I expected, with the previous bearings coming out in great condition. I could proceed in fitting the new ACL bearings dry and plastigauge the crank journals to confirm the oil clearance.

The main journal oil clearance was in the middle of the factory spec, so the crank could go in one final time. Next came the time consuming job of gapping the piston rings to the recommended Wiseco spec for my application.

Once the rings had been gapped and deburred, I could assemble the pistons, rods and rings.

With the compression height of these pistons, the wrist pin passes through the oil control rings. In this case, Wiseco provide an oil support rail which gets installed on the very bottom first.

 

[f0xy]

Tapered ring compressor makes the installation painless versus the cheap universal ones...!

More soon!

 

[Waitey]

Whats the block and head weigh?

Were you never interested in using a later Ali one with inserts?

 

[f0xy]

Whats the block and head weigh?

Were you never interested in using a later Ali one with inserts?

There is a 20kg difference between alu and iron blocks. Been there done that I'm afraid to say over the years Pulled both OEM threads, and pulled timeserts out, you either get lucky or you don't with them, the issue always seems to be the area around the hole, rather than the thread itself. I will weigh the head next time I'm out there.

We've had partial success with an alu block with custom longer ARP head studs (held initial torque and been OK up to now) running 14psi. ARP don't officially list them, they only list head studs for M50 iron block (shorter). I think this has worked due to the loading being static when applying the torque, rather than the twisting effect on the thread at the same time as you get with a bolt only.

Unfortunately you're a bit stuck when you are using E46/M54 stuff too, as there is no iron block equivalent available, again we have ran the above longer ARP studs without issue in those too. Back when we had issues with threads pulling (probably 6-7 years ago now) there were no 'longer' ARP available that we knew of, so I collected a number of iron blocks when they were cheap (£20-30), compared to now they can sell for £200-250 being thin on the ground.

On the flip side of weight deficit, actual background engine noise/harmonics are significantly less in the iron block versus the alu, which we log on both, throughout all RPM ranges. I can only assume the denser iron block has a form of dampening effect on the poor M54 crank harmonics. Considering the car is at a relative good weight for the spec (<1150kg) the 20kg isn't too massive of a factor really, not for me anyway.

 

[Waitey]

There is a 20kg difference between alu and iron blocks. Been there done that I'm afraid to say over the years Pulled both OEM threads, and pulled timeserts out, you either get lucky or you don't with them, the issue always seems to be the area around the hole, rather than the thread itself. I will weigh the head next time I'm out there.

We've had partial success with an alu block with custom longer ARP head studs (held initial torque and been OK up to now) running 14psi. ARP don't officially list them, they only list head studs for M50 iron block (shorter). I think this has worked due to the loading being static when applying the torque, rather than the twisting effect on the thread at the same time as you get with a bolt only.

Unfortunately you're a bit stuck when you are using E46/M54 stuff too, as there is no iron block equivalent available, again we have ran the above longer ARP studs without issue in those too. Back when we had issues with threads pulling (probably 6-7 years ago now) there were no 'longer' ARP available that we knew of, so I collected a number of iron blocks when they were cheap (£20-30), compared to now they can sell for £200-250 being thin on the ground.

On the flip side of weight deficit, actual background engine noise/harmonics are significantly less in the iron block versus the alu, which we log on both, throughout all RPM ranges. I can only assume the denser iron block has a form of dampening effect on the poor M54 crank harmonics. Considering the car is at a relative good weight for the spec (<1150kg) the 20kg isn't too massive of a factor really, not for me anyway.

Interesting point on the harmonics.

My Duratec suffered at close to 9krpm. It could back the bolts out of the thermostat housing.

My little Rover K @ 8500rpm was solid as a rock.

Do you think a new Ali block would be better, I don’t thing they ever torque the same after their first go?

Caterham for the 620 engines, get the blocks and head sent to them separately from Ford, so they aren’t splitting and re torque the new block.

 

[f0xy]

Interesting point on the harmonics.

My Duratec suffered at close to 9krpm. It could back the bolts out of the thermostat housing.

My little Rover K @ 8500rpm was solid as a rock.

Do you think a new Ali block would be better, I don’t thing they ever torque the same after their first go?

Caterham for the 620 engines, get the blocks and head sent to them separately from Ford, so they aren’t splitting and re torque the new block.

Yeah. Similar issue with K20s which tend to vibrate every last bolt on the head and block loose past continual use over 8500rpm. Doing 2-3 hour endurance races @ 250hp we finished with the idle control valve missing, the alternator bolt backed out and various other things on a number of occasions.

New alu block would be 100% fine I have no doubt about it - I think the issue is the 20 year+ old casting that has been through hundreds/thousands of heat cycles, potentially over heated by previous owners and so on. Every thread issue/pull we had was always at the front or back of the block, the middle always held no problem

 

[f0xy]

With the rotating assembly in the block it was just a matter of bolting everything else back on. First was the oil windage tray, pump, and new oil pump chain tensioner, then the main chain guides and the front timing cover.

The sump could then go on, and bottom end transferred back to the lower engine stand. The ARP head studs were cleaned and wound in, then a new Reinz standard thickness (1.75mm) headgasket dropped on.

 

[f0xy]

84.5mm bore really is the maximum possible with a stock headgasket.

The head could then be dropped on and torqued down.

Then the lifter trays, cams, upper chain and tensioner. At this point, I spent some time measuring the actual physical valve clearance 10-15 degrees before and after TDC to be sure of my calculations. As expected, there is more than I will ever need.

Spare VANOS unit was rebuilt with new seals for good measure, and installed onto the cylinder head.

New colder NGK BkR8EIX spark plugs installed and the rocker cover could go back on.

 

[f0xy]

Flywheel, clutch and gearbox could then go back on then be lifted back into the car.

At this point I decided to change the water outlet from the block to an AN style fitting rather than the OEM hard pipe that is three times the size. AN12 fitting welded onto the end and bracket made. Then a new line up to the expansion tank which is much neater.

The coolant hoses were showing their age so I replaced them with some silicone.

The ITBs and all other associated parts were installed, oil cooler, PAS cooler, throttle cable and so on.

I was previously around 90% duty cycle on my old injectors that were 290cc, so I needed to upgrade.
I went to brand new Bosch 550cc EV14s, which are actually around 585cc at my fuel pressure.

With everything checked and fluids in, the engine started no issue. It was not ran for long, just enough to check for leaks and bleed the coolant. The running in would be done on the dyno.

 

[f0xy]

With this engine I wanted to get rid of the open ITG filter on the ITBs and enclose the whole setup. The plan was to make an airbox from two sections, an upper which matches the Jenvey backplate, with the biggest inlet pipe I can fit (5"), down to a front box containing a panel filter.

I wanted this in place for the dyno as a 'proof of concept', as if everything worked I would keep it in place and run it moving forwards. I decided on a panel filter from a Porsche Cayenne as it was a good size for the space I had available and from a model which has more horsepower I would ever make.

Then it was back to EFI to run the engine in on the dyno then straight into mapping.

Il let the graphs show how well the new setup performs. This is a stock M52 cylinder head, used in models as low as 150hp. The ports, valves and seats are all original.

The comparison graph from lowest to highest:

2.8 - M50 Inlet Manifold
3.0 - M50 Inlet Manifold
3.0 - ITB + S52 US M3 Camshafts
3.0 - High Compression + ITB + Catcams

Now on to the next track day

 

[f0xy]

 

[f0xy]

The new engine certainly ripped throughout the summer at Anglesey, Cadwell and Snetterton...



Although all was not well, through no fault of my own, it's now stripped to a bare block...

Ill get round to updating with the details soon 🤦‍♂️

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Question, you might have already answered this but why are you running with stock ports?

I was under the impression that the M54 head flows a little better than the M52 but with work an American chap has the M54 head flowing nearly as well as a stock s54 which is impressive.

 

[f0xy]

Question, you might have already answered this but why are you running with stock ports?

I was under the impression that the M54 head flows a little better than the M52 but with work an American chap has the M54 head flowing nearly as well as a stock s54 which is impressive.

Well.... I can put that theory to bed immediately as the M54 ports are WAY smaller in stock form than the M50/M52. I only know this as I have an M54 head here right now, and side by side there is no comparison. I can post up a few pictures if you would like to see, its certainly interesting, and the M50/2 are considerably larger in stock form. You have to consider a lot of stuff on "the internet" is hearsay as we've come to realise over the past 8-9 years of doing these M5x engines!

my mate (black 330i in some of the videos) has a "ported" head, done by "CNCHeads", and whilst it might "look" nicer, the port sizes are the same as M50/M52 in measured dimension in stock form (regardless of flow). Both M50/2/4 heads use the same valve size, stem size and valve angle. The M50 NV heads used 7mm valve stems instead of 6mm.

The more interesting thing is, we currently have two cars/engines on the go, built at the same time, of relative comparison:

M50B30, M52 Head, S52 "US M3" Cams, M3 exhaust manifolds, M50 inlet, etc. Makes 275hp
M54B30, "Ported" M54 Head, Schrick Cams (Same spec as US M3), M3 exhaust manifolds, M50 inlet, etc. Makes 265hp on the same dyno.

Unfortunately, you can't interchange M50/2 and M54 heads, as the blocks are different and coolant passages in different places (not that you'd want to due to the above). Some people do port the M50/2 heads, but there isn't much room to play with, and I can only assume the M54 is limited to near M50/2 sizing due to the same.

Someone I know cut an M50/2 head into a cross section to see how much material there is to play with before you end up breaking through the casting into open space or threads:

The reason I stuck with stock ports is - there is less money in the head in case of a terminal issue, and to basically prove "the internet" wrong. A number of years ago I was told its not possible to make more than 270-275hp on a stock M50/2 head, when the original engine was making 290+. I thought I was at the limit then, but there was no harm in trying with more compression and bigger cams, once again it worked and was up 25hp on stock ports.

In hindsight now with the (above) engine block/bore issue it may have made more, but only time will tell. There was a fundamental machining issue on the block which I will explain in more detail at some point, but its basically resulted in me having to source a new block to get machined elsewhere. Maybe I'm already at the limit of these ports, but you don't know until you try. Now I know what it did on stock cam timing I have a good idea of what I can try to push it that bit harder, and with better machine work who knows what it might do....

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Well.... I can put that theory to bed immediately as the M54 ports are WAY smaller in stock form than the M50/M52. I only know this as I have an M54 head here right now, and side by side there is no comparison. I can post up a few pictures if you would like to see, its certainly interesting, and the M50/2 are considerably larger in stock form. You have to consider a lot of stuff on "the internet" is hearsay as we've come to realise over the past 8-9 years of doing these M5x engines!

my mate (black 330i in some of the videos) has a "ported" head, done by "CNCHeads", and whilst it might "look" nicer, the port sizes are the same as M50/M52 in measured dimension in stock form (regardless of flow). Both M50/2/4 heads use the same valve size, stem size and valve angle. The M50 NV heads used 7mm valve stems instead of 6mm.

The more interesting thing is, we currently have two cars/engines on the go, built at the same time, of relative comparison:

M50B30, M52 Head, S52 "US M3" Cams, M3 exhaust manifolds, M50 inlet, etc. Makes 275hp
M54B30, "Ported" M54 Head, Schrick Cams (Same spec as US M3), M3 exhaust manifolds, M50 inlet, etc. Makes 265hp on the same dyno.

Unfortunately, you can't interchange M50/2 and M54 heads, as the blocks are different and coolant passages in different places (not that you'd want to due to the above). Some people do port the M50/2 heads, but there isn't much room to play with, and I can only assume the M54 is limited to near M50/2 sizing due to the same.

Someone I know cut an M50/2 head into a cross section to see how much material there is to play with before you end up breaking through the casting into open space or threads:

View attachment 1560204

The reason I stuck with stock ports is - there is less money in the head in case of a terminal issue, and to basically prove "the internet" wrong. A number of years ago I was told its not possible to make more than 270-275hp on a stock M50/2 head, when the original engine was making 290+. I thought I was at the limit then, but there was no harm in trying with more compression and bigger cams, once again it worked and was up 25hp on stock ports.

In hindsight now with the (above) engine block/bore issue it may have made more, but only time will tell. There was a fundamental machining issue on the block which I will explain in more detail at some point, but its basically resulted in me having to source a new block to get machined elsewhere. Maybe I'm already at the limit of these ports, but you don't know until you try. Now I know what it did on stock cam timing I have a good idea of what I can try to push it that bit harder, and with better machine work who knows what it might do....

You'll have to forgive me, I've only just found this thread and my reference to M54/M52 flow was some dribble dragged up from the back of my head. Looking at the cutaway image of the M52 head, I recognise that image I think and believe its the same chap I was thinking of, he is in love with M54's, turbos them a lot and has managed to get the M54 head to flow nearly as well as the S54.... is it the same chap? If not I'll dig up the US thread as it makes for interesting reading especially given that he gives good flow data which as you say is anti internet stuff.

What block did the Alpina B3s use? From memory thats either 3.3 or 3.4l? Was it an S54 block with worked M54B30 head?

Im currently trying to find the enthusiasm to sort this heap out:

Its due big ends, vanos rebuild, valve clearance and I think its done its headgasket between cylinders 1&2, the parts list I have it looking depressingly expensive and given its in a touring shell its means 95% of the value of the car is in the engine which is worrying. I have often considered swapping to an M54 + rotrex while the M54 is still cheap and very available, or I could just ignore the car exists for a little longer (the more likely option).

Great thread btw, slowly working my way through it! I've had several 328i's now and have a lot of love for the M50/M52 engined cars, still have a 328i touring which has eaten all its nikasil but thats another story of woe.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

btw, where in the country are you? I've had some very good results from this company:

HT Howard & Co

I swapped to them after a more local company couldn't make round bores and the work out of ht measured up perfectly.

 

[scullyg40]

Amazing thread, just read it all from start to finish over the last couple of days.
So you say the cylinderhead you use, are the same on basically al the 6-cylinder E36's? So the 323, 325 and 328 all have the same cylinder head that will flow above 300 hp? That's quite amazing.

 

[BIFCAIDS]

Any updates on this @f0xy 👀

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Yes, dead keen on an update for this if you have one!

 

[JamesBryan]

Yes, dead keen on an update for this if you have one!

Being broken for parts, not sure what he's got left for sale.

Porsche being built instead.

See Porsche thread.

 

[f0xy]

Amazing thread, just read it all from start to finish over the last couple of days.
So you say the cylinderhead you use, are the same on basically al the 6-cylinder E36's? So the 323, 325 and 328 all have the same cylinder head that will flow above 300 hp? That's quite amazing.

Yes, single VANOS heads anyway. Obviously I went solid lifter due to the camshafts to support the RPM but the flow is there (with the right inlake/exhaust manifolds).

So once it was mapped nothing much changed. I had some decent days out in 2021 with mates, the engine performed well....

First up was Anglesey in May...

Then Cadwell in August...

Then Snetterton the same week (which wasn't without its issues, however all resolved on the day)...

However I knew something wasn't right. Oil consumption was high. There were no leaks, and no smoke on overrun, only under load.

I got some footage from behind the car, and it can be seen here. It was consistent, but didn't get any worse through the 3 trackdays.



So I decided to not use the car again in 2021 and investigate, hopefully not causing any further damage...

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Lol at 0:06, E36 and RX8 having a smoking competition. Both flying round there, your mates Mrs doesn't look as into the commentary as he does 😂

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Being broken for parts, not sure what he's got left for sale.

Porsche being built instead.

See Porsche thread.

Got a link? Can't see it on here looking through @f0xy's posts

 

[JamesBryan]

Got a link? Can't see it on here looking through @f0xy's posts

https://cliosport.net/threads/the-porsche-thread.801206/post-12519451

 

[f0xy]

First thing to do was a compression test. All cylinders healthy as expected, the engine was making good power still..

So only thing to do was pull the head off for a look. All cylinders showing the same mirroring after only 3 trackdays and dyno time...

So I pulled the engine from the car, and stripped it fully to see the full extent of the damage...

After some research and discussion, there were two potential conclusions. The block has been bored incorrectly, and/or the hone was poor not allowing oil retention on the cylinder walls. I never measured the block after I got it back from the machine shop, I just trused it was done correctly, to my required spec, as they even had the pistons to measure and work from:

84.5mm (3.3268") Bore
Piston to Bore Clearance: 0.0889mm (0.0035")

I invested in some Mitutoyo measuring equipment, so I could measure each and hopefully find out the sizing was incorrect. Some time later:

Not a huge amount out, however they are out of size and out of round for what I asked for. In my opinion what I think happened is, they bored it to size, then took even more material off when honing - rather than boring undersize and then honing to final size. This isn't to mention the hone quality was poor also.

The block was essentially useless to me, only good for someone to bore out further for another application. In the end I managed to sell it on eBay. But the problem was M50 iron blocks are getting harder to come by.

At this time the car was starting to take a back seat, life got in the way with work and a house renovation / garage build going on taking up all of my time. I kept an eye out for a block, or bottom end, and eventually came across a cheap original one, albeit on the other end of the country...

 

[f0xy]

Over the next month or so the donor bottom end was then stripped, parts sold on eBay (which covered the cost of the bottom end), and then dropped off at a new machine shop. I had already taken the previous block to this place for an opinion and he confirmed our thoughts. Now it was down to this place to do it correctly...

Just before Christmas 2021 it was back. 1mm removed from the deck, bored and honed. I spent some time measuring this before even thinking about building it up. No surprise this time, it was exactly to spec.

It remained untouched until the end of March 2022, when I started to build it up with new rings, bearings, seals, guides. Also drilled the block again to take the oil pump chain tensioner modification...

Another couple of months went by with other things getting in the way, then a return to Le Mans for the first time since COVID.
@BIFCAIDS ended up convincing me to sticker up the F11 for the occasion similar to a BMW "Art Car"...

After returning I wanted to get the engine finished and at least get out for a trackday in 2022. I got it built back up with the cylinder head, camshaft timing and all ancillaries. The exhaust manifolds were modified further to add per cylinder EGT and dual wideband in accessible locations...

 

[f0xy]

I borrowed the use of a dyno to run the engine in, and then booked Cadwell Park for August. The engine turned out well, no oil consumption and all temperatures solid. Done these enough times now to know if something was amiss. Then just before the trackday, @BIFCAIDS suggested we use the left over vinyl from the F11 and do the same to the E36. One day later...

I didn't get any video, but the car ran flawlessly and had zero issues all day. I was just enjoying being able to use it after the engine block fiasco.

In October 2022 I went back to EFI just to check over the mapping, now the engine had been used properly. Everything as expected, same results, just no oil consumption.

With nothing to sort, I decided to book Oulton Park in November 2022, something we do nearly every year. The car ran great most of the morning, but I could smell gearbox oil every now and again. Looking under the car, the entire underside was covered in a misting of oil. I already have a modified breather hose on the box - they are known to breathe a little, but for whatever reason it was breathing more than ever, maybe a worn bearing or just the fact I was pushing it harder than ever.

I couldn't stop it happening, so called it a day at lunchtime, and made use of the garage to remove the gearbox 😂

I did have a spare - just not something you take to a track day. That concluded 2022, and it just needed a gearbox fitting to be able to use in 2023...

 

[KitsonRis]

That vinyl looks epic on that, suits it really well.

 

[f0xy]

I decided to book Oulton Park for February 2023, a risk at that time of year but with no changes to make I just wanted to use it. The day ended up being dry, conditions were near perfect and the car was flying.

The front pads were finished, but a fault free day. I even got some video:

 

[f0xy]

Between those days, I had been building a garage, something I've never had. Doing it DIY obviously takes time, but it was worth the effort. It was weather tight in 2022, but rendering and other jobs ran into early 2023. No trades involved, aside from calling in a favour from a mates dad - retired bricklayer.

I won a 14ft sectional electric garage door from eBay, being removed to make way for an extension, so picked it up on my trailer...

Original single brick garage demolished and dug out the foundations first, 4m3 concrete in...

Trench, engineering and then 17 ton of MOT...

DPM, A192 rebar then 6m3 of C35...

Tamped then floated with a piece of DPM on edge, turned out exactly how I wanted.

 

[f0xy]

500x Solid Dense 7.2N blocks then arrived and the walls started to go up..

The front walls were doubled up and two padstones installed to take a decent sized steel, which was a big lift by hand...

I could then set about doing the roof structure. 9x4" C24 mid beam, then 9x2" C24 everywhere else...

The eBay door was then fitted...and the front overhang was then built out. The two side walls were then blocked up to tie in the timbers.

15x sheets of OSB3 then went on the top and were screwed down. Before the roof covering could go on, I did the soffits and fascias.

Then a few days later the EDPM covering went on with all the trims. Along with a security door on the side.

 

[f0xy]

We were then at the back end of 2022 and the weather wasn't really ideal for jobs outside. Concrete was sealed, walls painted, second hand racking put in and started filling it with sh*t 😊

Various other jobs were done like guttering, drainage along the front, fascia above the door and so on. As the weather improved I put the render beads on and made a start. Never done rendering (or plastering) before, but more than happy with how it turned out...

Still needs painting, but it got too late on in 2023 by the time I got to that, so it will have to wait until the weather gets a bit warmer now.

 

[Robbie Corbett]

Cheers @f0xy - these are superb updates

 

[f0xy]

After a successful Oulton in February, we decided to go to Cadwell Park in April. All I had to do was fit some new front pads.

Conditions were great the next morning. The track was dry, however as you can imagine the grass was covered in dew and was still very much wet.

Late morning, I unusually locked the front left wheel at the top of Charlies, which took me on to the grass at 80mph+. There was no stopping the car then, so I knew a big impact was coming with the wall. However, what I wasn't expecting is the car to roll over...



I got out easily, and the engine was stalled before impact with the wall. The cage did its job and saved the structure of the shell, just the roof skin and upper windscreen frame that took the most damage.

When I got it back, I got it in the garage and stripped the front end down. It then sat for a good few months. With the roof frame still being in its original position, thanks to the cage, it just needs a new windscreen panel and skin. However, I spent a while debating what to do...

Towards the back end of the summer 2023 I had decided it was time to move on from the E36 platform, Ultimately the deciding factor was the value and demand of E36 M3 parts, and the running gear alone from the E36 would easily fund the purchase of what I had in mind to build next.

I stripped the shell of all parts, keeping everything I could move to a new project. I removed the windscreen, and drilled out the spot welds on the roof skin which is ready to come off. I'm replacing the windscreen panel, then see if anyone is interested in the shell. Most of the running gear went quite quickly, however I'm still sat on the engine, ITBs and various other high value parts which in time will fund the next build.

With the money sat there, it was just a waiting game for the right base car. I had decided if I am going to build a new car, I want to go "slower" on track days, or at least less hp/tonne, at least for some time. The E36 was great, but the 320hp engine just meant you were easily driving away from mates at trackdays (and many other 'normal' cars). You were esentially driving round on your own = boring.

After a couple of months wait, just before the end of 2023...

FIN.

 

[Matt Cup]

Brilliant read as always and glad to see the updates. Garage looks epic btw!

Shame it ended that way for the E36 but onwards and upwards with the Porsche 👍

 

[f0xy]

Brilliant read as always and glad to see the updates. Garage looks epic btw!

Shame it ended that way for the E36 but onwards and upwards with the Porsche 👍

Yeah it turned out much better than expected, especially for DIY, but I suppose you do it to your own standard then.

I may do a thread about it. Already quite a bit happened, engine and box are out, and going for cage mid February 👍

 

[Robbie Corbett]

After a successful Oulton in February, we decided to go to Cadwell Park in April. All I had to do was fit some new front pads.

View attachment 1676571

Conditions were great the next morning. The track was dry, however as you can imagine the grass was covered in dew and was still very much wet.

Late morning, I unusually locked the front left wheel at the top of Charlies, which took me on to the grass at 80mph+. There was no stopping the car then, so I knew a big impact was coming with the wall. However, what I wasn't expecting is the car to roll over...



I got out easily, and the engine was stalled before impact with the wall. The cage did its job and saved the structure of the shell, just the roof skin and upper windscreen frame that took the most damage.

View attachment 1676572

View attachment 1676573

When I got it back, I got it in the garage and stripped the front end down. It then sat for a good few months. With the roof frame still being in its original position, thanks to the cage, it just needs a new windscreen panel and skin. However, I spent a while debating what to do...

View attachment 1676574

View attachment 1676575

Towards the back end of the summer 2023 I had decided it was time to move on from the E36 platform, Ultimately the deciding factor was the value and demand of E36 M3 parts, and the running gear alone from the E36 would easily fund the purchase of what I had in mind to build next.

I stripped the shell of all parts, keeping everything I could move to a new project. I removed the windscreen, and drilled out the spot welds on the roof skin which is ready to come off. I'm replacing the windscreen panel, then see if anyone is interested in the shell. Most of the running gear went quite quickly, however I'm still sat on the engine, ITBs and various other high value parts which in time will fund the next build.

With the money sat there, it was just a waiting game for the right base car. I had decided if I am going to build a new car, I want to go "slower" on track days, or at least less hp/tonne, at least for some time. The E36 was great, but the 320hp engine just meant you were easily driving away from mates at trackdays (and many other 'normal' cars). You were esentially driving round on your own = boring.

After a couple of months wait, just before the end of 2023...

View attachment 1676576

FIN.

@Pegasaurus Rex

 

[Robbie Corbett]

After a successful Oulton in February, we decided to go to Cadwell Park in April. All I had to do was fit some new front pads.

View attachment 1676571

Conditions were great the next morning. The track was dry, however as you can imagine the grass was covered in dew and was still very much wet.

Late morning, I unusually locked the front left wheel at the top of Charlies, which took me on to the grass at 80mph+. There was no stopping the car then, so I knew a big impact was coming with the wall. However, what I wasn't expecting is the car to roll over...



I got out easily, and the engine was stalled before impact with the wall. The cage did its job and saved the structure of the shell, just the roof skin and upper windscreen frame that took the most damage.

View attachment 1676572

View attachment 1676573

When I got it back, I got it in the garage and stripped the front end down. It then sat for a good few months. With the roof frame still being in its original position, thanks to the cage, it just needs a new windscreen panel and skin. However, I spent a while debating what to do...

View attachment 1676574

View attachment 1676575

Towards the back end of the summer 2023 I had decided it was time to move on from the E36 platform, Ultimately the deciding factor was the value and demand of E36 M3 parts, and the running gear alone from the E36 would easily fund the purchase of what I had in mind to build next.

I stripped the shell of all parts, keeping everything I could move to a new project. I removed the windscreen, and drilled out the spot welds on the roof skin which is ready to come off. I'm replacing the windscreen panel, then see if anyone is interested in the shell. Most of the running gear went quite quickly, however I'm still sat on the engine, ITBs and various other high value parts which in time will fund the next build.

With the money sat there, it was just a waiting game for the right base car. I had decided if I am going to build a new car, I want to go "slower" on track days, or at least less hp/tonne, at least for some time. The E36 was great, but the 320hp engine just meant you were easily driving away from mates at trackdays (and many other 'normal' cars). You were esentially driving round on your own = boring.

After a couple of months wait, just before the end of 2023...

View attachment 1676576

FIN.

3.2 or 2.7?

 

[f0xy]

...I had decided if I am going to build a new car, I want to go "slower" on track days, or at least less hp/tonne, at least for some time. The E36 was great, but the 320hp engine just meant you were easily driving away from mates at trackdays (and many other 'normal' cars). You were esentially driving round on your own = boring....

3.2 or 2.7?

2.7, 5 Speed 👍 However I'll be running it on my EMU Black, with a few other basic mods, for now!