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Only in my MK1's & mainly for being a bit nonce like for OEM-ness, so can't really say what they're like on the MK2 in comparison tbh
It's more the PS3's that are the go to tyre for the 1*2's which I've found to be true but my preference now is Avon ZV7. From 3 years of having them on my 172...
Got this very odd issue that crops up on or just after startup whenever it's dark enough for the auto headlights to turn on.
Has anyone ever seen this happen before?
Renault are absolute arseholes with chopping & changing parts numbers so on anything over 10 years old it's not always a reliable thing to go by.
Another cnut's trick Renault like to pull is having almost completely identical parts with different parts numbers because 1 of them comes with a bolt...
The "official"-ish term is fixed bias rather than non-adjustable which is because of the Cup not having the valve connected to the rear axle - you can actually adjust the valve itself by undoing the big lock nut and turning the inner thread bit with a 5mm allen key - deffo a bit sketchy to be...
This is one of those occasions where the information online is all completely wrong - that Bosch valve is the same part as fitted to other 172's (but not all 172's have it) and the only thing you need to do to make it correct for a Cup is completely remove the rod & spring from it
The paint & materials alone to do a full respray from bare metal on my Williams cost around £1,200 back in 2018.
The same guy that painted it recently did another one and the same amount of paint & materials cost £2,300
For the prices you've been quoted, don't expect it to be a nice & pristine job
That only applies to non- Cup though as those are linked to the rear beam, on the 172 Cup that bit isn't connected so the rear braking effort is fixed
It's 100% the valve at fault, it might be worth trying to remove the pipes either side of it for the caliper that isn't getting the fluid and...
I had exactly the same on mine, also had it briefly after fitting a new compensator when I had to fit a new caliper but that was more of an issue with how I was bleeding it
Getting a new valve should deffo fix the problem, showing as available on Autodoc atm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/671793
I had this exact issue on mine, the time, money & effort involved firing the parts cannon at the problem for it to just be the hub itself was sickening :cry:
FWIW I could only find it was the hub at fault by poking & prodding at stuff with a prybar when I had just 1 wheel up in the air...
RPD are a Renault main dealer and their parts people are very good when it comes to the MK1 16v/Williams and the MK2 RS models from personal experience, so I'd be inclined to take their word for the MK2 sensor being the same for the 197 - just buy it from somewhere else that's cheaper 🤣
I usually take a spare coil pack & throttle body plus some injectors but the plugs, leads & alternator belt are a good shout & I'll deffo be doing that for my next trip
If the problem persists I'd suggest using one of these bleeders before looking for a new compensator, had a similar problem on mine after fitting a new caliper, just would not bleed with pressing the pedal or pulling a vacuum, knew the compensator was good as it was new and the rears worked...
Well............tbh it's not very scientific butI am basing that on the experience on that particular trip, @RichValver and I both filled up to the very top of the filler neck at the same time in Adenau then headed home in a little convoy.
About 60 miles from Calais I was getting a bit nervous...
I've had the opposite end of the spectrum on ring trips as well, learning the hard way that a Cup has a smaller fuel tank than a normal 172 which meant that I was running on fumes when we got to Calais.
Got financially bummed for a full tank at the motorway services outside the Chunnel exit then...
I can get 38mpg from mine on a decent run which is about 420 miles on a full tank so I can get from Folkestone to the Nurburgring and do a couple of laps before needing to refuel 😁
I'd be binning the tyres on the basis of them being Parada Spec 2's because they're deffo old as f**k
Discs are fine, a few good repeated stomps from 50-60 mph or more will sort them out
Depends on how much boost/power and if it's going to be used more on road or track tbh
Some people prefer to use JC5 089 from the ph1 172 as the gear ratios are more suited to it - still made of the same French chocolate as all the other boxes so not really the most suitable option for big...
As mentioned above, the only thing I can find are the Koni's as well but they're about £200 each, it's not so bad if you're not having to by springs but you're then into similar money as coilovers