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Depends what wishbones you're using tbh, if they're Williams, new ones don't really exist so refreshing them is certainly the best option.
If they're Valver arms then I'd personally just get new ones as they're readily available & not obscenely priced as they were also used on the lower spec...
What parts do you need and where abouts are you?
There's a fair few people scattered about the country (Essex, Reading, South Wales, Warrington/Manchester, Leicestershire/Derbyshire/Nottinghamshire) with hoardes of Mk1 Clio stuff so should be able to point you in the right direction
Impressive thread bump 😲
Have you got a link to the video? I've never seen it but I think there's a possibility I might recognise something.
There's a guy on the Williamsclio.co.uk forum that was in Wales and I think his name is Gareth & on the forum he's MAXIBOY
I could be talking utter...
Kinda wish I'd seen this thread sooner to tell you that it's possible to remove the engine with the loom still attached to it 🫣
It's just 2 plugs in the relay box, rad/fan connections and a couple of earth connections to undo. The wiring bundle for the ecu just needs to be unclipped from the...
You can easily just use a cereal box for that rocker gasket tbh 🤣 it wont matter what you choose
Parts wise, the F7P & Clio F7R are pretty much identical apart from the sump pan, crank, pistons, cams and the valves
The spanner in the works is that the Megane F7R is half identical and half...
Outer sills don't exist but the lower spec ones simply need to be cut down to size as they're shorter on the 16v/Williams so that's relatively easy
There's a company on ebay (can't remember the name but will have to dig about to find it) that does R5 bits & bobs and the inner sills they make for...
You want to click on C57D for the Valver or C57M for the Williams
https://www.catcar.info/renault/?lang=en&l=c3Q9PTIwfHxzdHM9PXsiMTAiOiJNb2RlbCIsIjIwIjoiQ2xpbyAocGhhc2UgMSAmIDIpIn18fG5vcHJzPT0xMjYwIiwiMTI2Mnx8YnJhbmQ9PVJlbmF1bHQ%3D
Have you removed the alternator belt to try turning it over? Only ask as I've seen seized up alternators, pas pumps and the tensioner pulley stopping them being turned over by hand.
Another thing I'd do is remove the rocker cover and the distributor then pour some oil all over the cams & lifters...
It's a bit hard to tell but they might be bigger discs as well, standard size is 259mm and I think there were 4 different size discs available with the Hi-Spec caliper kits back in the day so measuring those discs on it will be useful info for selling the calipers
I'd say have a look at a policy of it's own for the fiesta with zero NCB
Only say that as all my NCB (10 years) is used for my 172 Cup with limited mileage & I'm paying £193 but my daily is a normal 172, 10k miles a year and it's £230 with zero NCB - so it might not be as bad as you think 🤷♂️
Depends what the end result you're after looks wise is tbh, on my Williams I was after as close to OEM finish as possible so went with paint
But on my track car I wasn't bothered about looks/finish & wanted something durable & cheap so went with gloss black powdercoat
I don't actually know tbh, all I do know is that's it's a period correct race spec engine as he does hill climbs & sprints in it so it's got to be the right spec for the class he runs in
The Williams and ph2 Valvers have the exact same seats, just a different cloth pattern but they certainly are the best of the bunch
It was the leather seat option in the Valver that used the R19 front seats
Yep (y)
Unfortunately getting the fluid out is going to piss out all over the place & make a mess no matter what you do so use some cardboard & plenty of rags to soak up the worst of it
The pipe circled in red goes to the power steering fluid reservoir and the 1 in green connects to the pump
The nut & bolt that connects the column & rack looks like this and it goes on the shaft you circled in green
No need to touch any of those, on the bendy joint at the bottom of the steering column, on 1 side of it is a 13mm nut, undo that, pop the bolt out and it's disconnected from the rack
Here's some diagrams of the system, basically you need a standard fuel rail that has the regulator built into it and the correct pipes
Number 5 in this pic is the vacuum pipe that connects to the original regulator