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Although saying that, because it's a Cup without ABS you can use rear discs from any other MK1 or MK2 Clio as the discs & bearings are the exact same parts and the part numbers are only different because of what abs rings are fitted to them. I managed to find a set of genuine discs for a 2006...

Those discs look mint to me, I wouldn't bother changing those, especially if they're genuine Renault ones. Also with how disgustingly expensive the genuine ones are now it's a bit of a minefield with the aftermarket pattern parts as a lot of them use dogshit bearings - I vaguely remember from a...

So you're the Matt I replied to on fb :D From someone else's reply on there saying they've just fitted some & they were spot on, it was the Febi ones I bought that were correct https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193786278522

There's no reason to have to take the manifold off 😳 but it certainly does make it incredibly easy to do the starter, some pics in this thread https://cliosport.net/threads/clio-williams-track-car.803549/ There's only 3 bolts from the gearbox side and 1 nut attaching it to the bracket on the...

They don't tend to survive not having a heatshield, here's the part number & what it looks like, you'll also need the 3 bolts for it, bottom right of the pic is the correct bolt

Go onto Autodoc and search for coolant, in the filters bit you just need to select the yellow colour and it'll bring up all the ones that are the same as Type D I've just bought this to do mine Hey, check out PEMCO Antifreeze in the AUTODOC app https://m.autodoc.co.uk/pemco/15770053

There's quite a lot of updates on his instagram https://www.instagram.com/brooklands.clio/?hl=en

Thread bump to see if there's any new info out there & maybe contribute something useful - got a really really cheap 172 to daily, the pas pump sounds like it's dying & as I'm doing the belts on it I might as well replace the pump too. So no track use and I'm preferring to be 3.14-key as I've...

Just to add, don't buy the aux belt kit if your Cup doesn't have air con

They're still available on Camskill for £69.50, the Nankang's are only any good for dry track use & even then they're pretty mediocre & marginally better than normal road tyres on track. I've had my 172 Cup for 6 years and only ever had PS3's or ZV7's on it, I can safely say that I've not...

Got a bit of mapping done today

Derbyshire force for you, they did the same for me on the Rover, proceed direct to fine, do not pass go, gimme £100 Was at a car meet in Derby with lots of coppers there, I didn't mind too much as it was amusing to watch all the badmanz have to rip of their illegal tints & other s**t at the...

I don't think it will, I suspect that might actually be a 172 cup shaft Ph1 are the shortest, then 172 cup followed by ph2 - I don't know the actual lengths but according to what I could find on Autodoc for the passenger shaft ph1=625mm, 172 cup=640mm, ph2=657mm There's a guy on the Facebook...

Pretty sure they're the exact same parts, it's the 172 Cup and 182 Cup shocks that are stiffer and the 182 Cup that have different bolt spacing

There's quite a lot of adjustment available on the adjuster rod so I'd look at adjusting that a bit more Also worth looking at the handbrake levers on the calipers, I had it on mine that although the levers were moving as they should, the piston in the caliper wasn't moving enough so fitted a...

Is it the same guy from the GTR kebab microwave video at Bedford?

The servo in my pic is the 1 that split itself open so that bit was already easy to disassemble 🤣 The rod the pedal attaches to is really easy to remove, it sits inside the plastic sleeve & is held in place with the 2 black clips which are then secured into place by the circlip spring thing...

I thought the 182 master cylinder couldn't be used because it only has 2 ports where the non abs one from the Cup has 4 ports? I was thinking more along the lines of the piston inside the MC being in a different position requiring a different length rod to press it while maintaining the same...

I I'm thinking this could also be related to the master cylinder being different on the Cup - I could also be talking a load of b****cks but it's something that seems plausible from my experience

You can't use sensible logic like that with French cars :ROFLMAO: You'd think that's the case but there really are a load of things that are annoyingly unique to the cup - which I have discovered the hard way - and probably a load I don't know about too. A brilliant example of this kind of...

If I was in this situation again I'd be getting my hands on some other servos & dismantling them to measure & compare stuff inside (I was about to scrounge some from a local scrappy that had a load of pov spec Mk2's in) with a view to making a good 1 that fits & works. As far as I can think...

You've got no chance of restoring yours, the rust has completely compromised the metal at the point it needs to be it's strongest (that's why it split in 2) it's just like rust anywhere else on the car, the only way to repair it is to chop it out & replace the metal itself. On top of that you...

Not sure if the silicone is visible in these pics tbh but you get the jist of what I was trying to do

These are the part numbers from mine & what I got from Autodoc. You can see the side by side pic that the servos are different. I reckon it's possible to swap the rod over to make it right but I chickened out because the new servo was really expensive, took ages to arrive, if it didn't work it'd...

Sounds like Mick has got a dose of amnesia & forgot all about the exact same nightmare I had with with mine just over 2 years ago :ROFLMAO: I'll have to go through my old photos to help properly explain but the short version is that I found it impossible to find a servo with the same part...

The cams I mentioned are the ones that work perfectly fine with the stock F7R springs and lifters - a lot of people have used those with good results over the years. There are other makes of cams that people have used but I'm not familiar with the specs of them so can't really offer any useful...

That's mega high rpms for a stock bottom end 😳 My f7r setup is running at slightly higher rpms but it's got forged rods, forged high compression pistons, crazy wild cams & solid lifters and it's utterly awful for road use - what you're looking at and with the cams you'll need it'll be just as...

Cams are a must for that engine as the original ones are junk, fitting standard Williams F7R A700 cams into a megane engine usually gives an extra 10-15 bhp without any other modifications so upgraded ones are well worth doing. If you want it to be able to rev like the f7p safely you'll need to...

Let this thing see daylight for the 1st time in 3 years & the engine bay looks like Pablo Escobar was a former owner, so gave it a wipe down with a damp cloth then put it away with a cover on it this time

There's 2 on ebay atm, 1 is £20 & the other is £110...