Subframe removal

[16V F7R]

Isn that going to damage the subframe or chassis as I’m doing it, even with a 1mm slit disc?

 

[Yarp]

Got that steering rack bolt out, went in through the side with arm through the wheel arch and also could get the bolt out the back inbetween the back of the subframe and the anti roll bar. That will be the best place to slide it back in. I am not looking forward to getting that back in.

Anyway I am just having to drop the subframe now, thank f**k. Well finally remove that linkage bolt and then carefully do it. However I have that one subframe bolt and the back that is not loosening and the nut is not being gripped by my 19mm spanner. The other side at the back is coming off and lowering the subframe slightly. So I think I am good with that one.

So what do you do when this bolt won’t come out? I don’t know if it is my spanner that isn’t getting the angle to grip the nut right or where do you cut it or do you get a long cold chisel and try and crack off the nut in the subframe to break it off? That nut and the bolt are starting to ‘dissolve’ as you say.

Thanks again to everyone who has helped with this.

I could be wrong but I’ve got 18mm in my head as the nut size

 

[16V F7R]

I’m going to try an 18mm I haven’t got one in my set. The other bolt at the back has been winding out but it may be just the way the spanner has been wedged. I’m getting a 18v grinder with a slit disc at the ready. I hope it will wind out a bit at least but the driver side bolt is proper corroded.

 

[16V F7R]

It’s finally off the car. I didn’t have to cut the bolt in question, the 18mm spanner fit perfect and I figured out how to get the angle with it and turned it off bit by bit with my ratchet. The rad on the mk1 can stay in and it didn’t need strapping up, they are bolted to the front cross member at the top with a couple of brackets. There was another bracket that needed unbolting at the bottom of the rad that connects to the subframe though that I didn’t realise until I started dropping the frame. The power steering pipe was awkward (because of the hard pipes) but managed to get that manoeuvred around as the frame was being lowered. The gear selector arm was the worst thing hindering what could have been a straight forward drop. As you have said that rod arm is weak so I constantly had to be careful and turned the frame at an angle in the end to get it out. I had to use two trolley jacks as well. Ideally it would have been great to have had an extra pair of hands. Putting it back in is not going to be easier and when everything is freshly powder coated I am going to have to probably get someone to help me get it bolted up as it was very awkward man handling the frame and the trolley jacks at the same time.

So what do people recommend me to do with the frame, bars, have it sandblasted and then powder coated or sandblasted and paint?

Thanks again for your advice.

 

[16v_paddy]

Depends what the end result you're after looks wise is tbh, on my Williams I was after as close to OEM finish as possible so went with paint

But on my track car I wasn't bothered about looks/finish & wanted something durable & cheap so went with gloss black powdercoat

 

[16V F7R]

I’m swayed towards powder coating for the durability and I like the gloss or satin black finish.

 

[16V F7R]

More subframe questions….

Is it correct that one side of the rear of the subframe mounting hole has an insert and the other side doesn’t? I have checked other pics and that appears to be correct, why is that? Do I need to remove this insert to powder coat?

Also there are insert/holders you can buy on eBay to make the back nuts captive at the rear of the subframe where it goes into the chassis. I assume I need to buy these also?

 

[Matt Cup]

You can just use a conventional nut that goes in the hole, doesnt need the captive clip aiui.

 

[Yarp]

They should have locating plug things on both sides at the back. They stick up and are semi-circle and help it locate correctly.

As above though, no need for the captive nuts. They’ll just dissolve again anyway. Plenty of space to get a spanner in there to hold them

 

[16V F7R]

What about the difference in the frame on either side? Is the chassis sitting at a slightly different height on one side and that’s why it is different on the subframe? Also I have forgot what washers I need, is it large mudguard/penny washers on the top and the bottom?

Do you sell the high tensile wishbone bolts and other various bolts new for the subframe @Yarp

 

[Yarp]

I can’t remember now, there might be a slight difference.

The only pic I can find of my subframe is below. However it’s just sat against a wall in the garage so if I remember on tomorrow I’ll grab a coupe of pics of the mounts if no-one else beats me to it.

I sell the bolts for them, just drop me a message if you want a set. No need for washers provided you use flange nuts/bolts.

If you’re being particularly professional the fronts are torqued to 62nm and rears to 105.

 

[16V F7R]

The subframe pics in this thread show it different on each side. Message me back for the wishbone bolts mate please and thanks for sharing the info 👍

 

[16v_paddy]

MK1 and MK2 subframes are completely different so you can't really use them to compare

Yes that bush is supposed to be there, god knows why Renault did it but it is kind of important - causes an annoying knock when it's knackered but is an absolute ball ache to diagnose - so you deffo need to get a new one, I've got a photo of the part number somewhere, will dig it out

For the powder coating leave it in place because you won't be able to fit the new one if the inside bit is coated

 

[16V F7R]

This is golden advice thank you. So powder coat with it in an then what is the best way to remove it afterwards? Yes please provide the code if you have it. I will try and find it. Does it have to be pressed in somehow or will the weight of the car compress it enough once torqued to 105 Nm?

 

[16v_paddy]

A smack with a hammer & punch usually does the trick to remove it as the heat from the powder coating oven will ruin it
It needs to be pressed in fully before going on the car, a big bolt, nut, socket and washer to wind it in will do the trick

 

[16V F7R]

Brilliant. I hope it doesn’t damage the powder coat though. I just have to find a new one now. 👍

 

[16v_paddy]

 

[16V F7R]

You selling it mate?

 

[16v_paddy]

Unfortunately not, I need it for my Williams plus I still need to find another one for my other Valver 🫣🤣

 

[16V F7R]

Damn, that isn’t filling me with confidence finding one…

 

[Matt Cup]

Can’t powerflex help with something like this?