Search results

Who are we using to supply boots? Already tried J&R who sent me something completely unsuitable.

Rear spring rate makes far more difference to ride comfort than front. 8 kg rear springs are more than twice as stiff as OEM and inevitably you feel that.

Ah f**k. It's a learning curve all right.

I loosened the pinch bolt.

In the latest twist in my gearbox swap saga, the steering shaft has become disconnected in the footwell, presumably from lowering the rack still bolted onto the subframe with the pinch bolt undone. What's the easiest way to sort this please? Can I remove the steering wheel and pull the shaft...

Got it in eventually with another pair of hands. Not a job I'll be doing again!

Working by myself with access to floor jacks and a two-post lift. Subframe lowered on one side and box going in that way. It's heavy and I'm struggling to get it back on the block by myself. Thought about raising the car and using a transmission jack, but how do I secure the box when lifting so...

Found the second nut - directly about the driveshaft spline facing driver's side. Hooray - box successfully out.

Thanks - I've seen that thread and most others but still can't find the nuts...

I think I've got two of the three as I've got the seven from the bellhousing plus two others out. Can't see a thing inside the engine bay.

Trying to separate the gearbox from the block. I've removed all of the bolts I think, but struggling to find the extra 2x nuts that need undoing. Where are they, please?

Ok that makes sense. I found that coilovers with stiffer front springs reduced roll significantly. Can't comment on aftermarket front springs, as haven't tried them.

If you're happy with your current setup, why change?

DS1.11 will eat your wheels. As will any proper pad. Only solution is to put a decent coating on the wheels, and wash them before they get wet. 5 mins with a jetwash will do it if you've coated them.

I use max caster (centre of top mount as far back in the turret as possible) and camber right in the middle of the turret. With caster you get the benefit of camber when you need it (when turning the wheel) without camber's drawbacks, which are less contact patch in a straight line and potential...

I haven't tried B14s but I am very happy with BC DS series on the Clio platform (and fwiw BC BR series on the E85 Z4 platform). Having experimented with various spring-rate combinations I've settled on 7F/5R as being ideal (for me) on the road. Which happens to be exactly what Bilstein offers...

Those lower shock threads are fragile. Pretty sure mine won't take more than about 100 Nm torque without cross-threading. Hopefully 100 Nm and some threadlock will keep the bolts in.

Nice one @MrBlonde - thanks! I'd myself do it the other way - go as soft as I can without losing too much body control. And I'd have to say in my experience damper settings don't make as big as a difference as you'd think from reading forums. I'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between...

Yep - previous owner lived near DMS and had car prepped there just before he sold it to me. Lots of updates in the 20k miles I've covered since thread was started. But I'm not much a blogger so haven't documented them. Trying to make a bit more of an effort with Clio #2, by continuing previous...

As the OP I feel obliged to reply :) Damping settings are just one of the various factors which come into play when searching for the right setup. Others include spring rate, geometry, ARBs, ride height. And there's a lot of room for subjectivity as BC point out - for example the orange car...

I replaced the entire BC top mount and strut with OEM top mount and strut, not just the top mounts, so can't pinpoint the difference the top mount makes by itself.

On the yellow car, as I've removed the BCs and replaced with OEM. Haven't driven an OEM setup for a while - amazing how much more refined it is...

They should be fine. They were replaced with the newer style because some owners experiencing knocking due to a gap between the two top-mount pieces. If you get that, a large washer placed over the damper rod before screwing the hat on will sort it.

You've got the older style mounts. The newer ones have spacers and a separate nyloc nut, not the integrated nut.

Ah - they've softened the rates quite a bit on their kits. Default used to be 9/8. Personally I think 4.5 kgs is too soft on the front - so by all means stiffen up the damping and see what happens.

Personally I'd always go softer on the rear for the road, as this makes a huge difference to compliance and ride comfort. In fact I'm in the process of researching going softer than the BC standard 8 kgs rear springs - looking at 5-6 kgs which is comparable to OEM.

I'll prolly stock with PS3s as they're pretty cheap from Costco during a promotion. But if I wanted to try something new I'd look at the Ultracs. I've run a set of AD08RS and they're not as good as PS3s imo, and they're expensive. Unfortunately most of the newer UHP tyres aren't made in 15".

I haven't tried them yet, but reckon the Vredestein Ultrac is worth a look.

Thanks. Do I need the round metal disc piece?

Picked up a set of used OEM front struts which are complete except for one of the caps that sits on top of the turret. Trying to work out what parts I need. I have one cap which is the new style. But the lower top mount portion seems to be the old style? I have no sandwich plate or long metal...