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Well built but I'd at least be expecting ITB's on it for that money

With the ball ache that accessing the starter motor is, I would be replacing with new item so that your not changing it again in a hurry

Alot of good points made, quite often a misconception that stainless is best

Be careful of using stainless bolts on carbon steel parts, can often cause further issues due to galvanic corrosion and dissimilar metals. Especially in a corrosive atmosphere or where theres lots of moisture / salty roads

Screwfix do sets of nuts and bolts in a tray but can't comment on quality as never used. Something Iv always meant to get myself but I always seem to get by without purchasing a set

I fitted the Aico ones to my home this year as per the new scottish law where they all have to be interlinked. 10 year battery life iirc and they all interlink via radio frerquency so if one goes off in the garage, they will all go off around the house I didn't fit one to the garage but its a...

Thanks, someone else just pointed that out to be aswell and they seem to do alot of good work. Didnt think to check koni site as just thought they wont bother with that but good to see they have two indy specialists for the work

Got a set of new koni (kw) rear dampers to fit my 172 running kw v2 coilovers, want to go for a stiffer rear spring also What companies have members used for revalving dampers?

Forgot to mention I had 3 spare lambdas sitting, threw one of them in and checked and graph seemed to be the same. That isnt to say they were both faulty or past their best like you say Just ordered a new one anyway and be keen to throw it onto the tester out of curiousity and see what...

Just got my 172 running a sports cat through MOT, just. 0.200 CO allowed and scraped by at 0.199 red hot I have checked lambda using rs tuner and it seems to graph ok on idle, could it still be knackered and worth a change? Also checked coolant sensor and is reading true so shouldnt be running...

I would say filter, as thats after its left the pump Sump will be cooler and oil may pick up some heat in the pump so truer reading

Pretty sure interstate are no more. I was looking into them few months back as their on the MSA tyre list and not one Id heard much about

Standard 172 manifold can be removed via top. 182 manifold from below and requires subframe to be lowered

To describe the noise, it is a light knock every few seconds

Just replaced the gearbox, flywheel, clutch and release bearing last week and have a noise on idle which disappears when clutch is depressed which leads me to think its the release bearing. Unless gripper diff's can be noisy on idle (unsure if they see any rotation in neutral? Maybe a daft...

Running a set of 15's on my phase 1

I had this problem 18 months ago, went for the proline kit mentioned above in black. After that though there was a few people saying they could still get them, but quite a few well known parts suppliers on here all said NLA

Schroth B2a eyelet on the lower seat belt mount on the outer Inner, drill through the exhaust runnel and spreader plate underneath Cant help with the crotch strap as just using 4 point

I just got the range the other week before all our bad weather up North and not had a chance to try them out yet. Think Im going to use both hybrid and normal shampoo, use hybrid every second wash or something. Always get good service from Alan and Eoin

Its ended up in North East Scotland, quite local to me. Older guy has gotten it

I had a mirco rts seat at first and then found out that their known for a wide fit and wouldnt fit with door bars. Even with extra holes drilled in the jon foz frames Then changed to motordrive seat which was narrower and a better fit, although still tight and still not 100% centre but miles...

Decided on a sealey set in the end rather than forking out for Bluepoint / Snap on https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637770847/12pc-reversible-combination-ratchet-spanner-set As for torches, led auto lamps do one with a dock but its smaller than most normal inspection lamps

Because its me thats buying them and thats what I prefer😂😂 Rather have the rigidity and know the spanner will be where I want it to be when reaching into awkward places and able to put force on it without it having a mind of its own

Want to try stay away from the flex ones and go with a fixed

Whats everyone using for ratchet spanners? Currently got halfords straight ones, not the best for access so want to go for the slightly angled ones. Been looking at mac tools and others but starting to sway towards bluepoint ones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173615907160

As said, just advertise as is. New owner can run the risk or get the belts done themselves with whoever they want to do them. As long as its reflected in the price

Similar method to eddie, if I dont need to work on the rear I often just leave the rear on ramps If only using one jack sometimes have to do the front bit by bit to save the axle stands moving. If they have a good hold on the chassis leg and fit in the stand good then shouldnt see much movement

Seen alot of recovery guys reccomend the noco jump packs, halfords stock them too. Not sure if you can get anything off them with a trade card

Good to see one in standard form, I had a silver W reg VTS as my 3rd car back in 2008

Priced the garage style workshop 7mm tiles, coming in at £930 for the area I need. Bit more than I was planning unfortunately Mototile was £540 Costco around £730