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Cheap ones don't work, either jubilee or i have used the ones from machinemart in the past

May have had the pas pump replaced, common issue causing the belt to jump like this. Alternatively the pump could have also worked loose from the mountings. Worth seeing if anything seems loose

You could also just drop the hubs/wishbones and even the shocks with the subframe then remove the bits after. Just remove the calipers from the hubs The dog bone mount is just 2 bolts? Remove one or the other doesn't really matter which

I'd just unplug the sensor, I have managed just hitting a spanner with a hammer

Right, with the selector remove it at the pivot point so that you won't have to f**k about adjusting it again to get the gears. Might be a rubber boot around it You will need to remove the driveshaft to drop the downpipe too The captive nuts on the rear of the subframe will be a right b**ch as...

Disagree here, I have had 3 megs with brembos and all of them have braked far worse than the 172 on standard calipers with good pads I use mine on track and a well priced pad is the PBS ProRace. I think DS1.11 are among the best but are pricey

Mines looking to retire 😭

Forgotten who was offering this 😂

So unfortunately was in a bump yesterday in my 225, will be going through insurance which I guess will most likely be a wright off due to the value of the car. If this is the case I'd like to buy the car back. My question is what sort of price would I be looking at paying to have this...

I have picked up the sealey kit, yet to use it but quality seems good

Fitted a 172 starter and heatshield to my Valver. Is a nice upgrade. Starts way better

Nissens Radiators are pretty cheap if yours is looking a bit worse for wear

@Coops Mk1 for sure

Not advise on what to do but I have just replaced my cambelt after ~40k miles last done 2016. I have no issue running the time up a bit longer than suggested if you know the history of the car. Obviously always a risk though (just done my meg 225 that was on ~8 years also)

I'd put it up for sale rather than scrapping it. Plenty of breakers will be interested in it

That's a cup spoiler mate so super hard to find. Typical as I just sold 2 which I had for ages

Cup or standard 172?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271925316937?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EuVmPRkXQV2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=GbNA9o_9Q6W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Iv been using this type for ages now. Save drilling holes

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315699839349?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yi1ojZncSxy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=GbNA9o_9Q6W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I used this last time, £15 off with code too and comes with bolts

What are peoples using for toolboxes. I'm fed up of everything getting chucked in a box and not being able to find anything Something not too bulky that I can just chuck in the boot if the car Pics and links appreciated (nothing silly expensive) 🙂

Spending money on GUF is your favourite

Axle stands up front on the chasis rails. I try using the rear axle mounting point for stands then or just the beam as there isn't much weight over the rear of the car anyway

I jack on these bolts rather than risk damaging the subframe

I use one of those hockey puck tools on my 172 but wouldn't use it in my mk1 At the front you can jack on the chasis rail or the rear subframe bolts To the rear I jack the car up on the rear beam where the torsion bars go through the trailing arms

Have had a Google but cant see any guides. Has anyone worked on one?

Got powerflex purple on mine

Just a follow up to this, 3 years later iv finally done the belt and these are the correct fit Reference number IJS Group 17-1033

I did ask a company about it yes, was like £200 a pair or something. Wasn't worth doing

Glad I picked this one up from Renault around 5 years ago. Had to replace it a couple of weeks ago

Picked this up in 2015 after selling my 225 Trophy Think it was on 110k ish and cost me £950 I still own it now on 150k 🙂 I remember looking at ph1's around the £800 mark at the time