Hi lads new member here , got a clio 2 1.4 16v but with some twingo rs mods . Bought it 4 years ago from a lady who had it in her garage , regarding the twingo mods a good friend showed me his wife car that had only the twingo rs intake and i was in love with the sound , so couple months later got the twingo upper intake + throttle body , bought from a Reno dealer twingo rs injectors + both cams , found an lower intake manifold from a megane 2 1.6 16v , from the same dealer bought also the modus oil separator to fit the twingo intake . Suspension wise car has Gaz GHA coilover kit , rear disks conversion with abs ( sensors ordered ) , front suspension from a clio 172 (lower wishbones , hubs ,calipers etc ) , PMS shifter (doesn t rattle ) twingo rs exhaust manifold from k-tec (i need to install it and complete exhaust with sport cat) . Car handles well , revs so easily to 6000 rpm , the fuel consumption is lower now 6.6l /100km at 120 km/h , tyre wise is sits on some hankook tyres will get some Michelin sp3 in the future ...
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2005 Renault Clio 2 1.4 16v from Romania
- Thread starter Torvalds
- Start date
Forgot to mention yesterday the car is a work in progress , the paint needs some help got some rust points and rear wheel arches need help , prob in the near future if i find a good pair of 172 headlights with xenon , 172 or 182 engine subframe ( got the washers to fix the lower wishbones ) im going to map it after i finish with the engine , got a spare 1.6 16v engine thinking to do a lot of work on it , open to any ideas .
Checked some threads and decided to add some spacers to rear wheels i didn t like how the wheel was sitinng with the wing so got some laser cut spacers and the nuts and bolts for rear hubs , also got 2 Michelin Pilot Sport 3 tyres , the handling of the car changed even better the grip on dry it s perfect you just turn and it goes there ... Also got a small video on how it sounds , fun starts at 03:00 mark , it filmed with gopro and it was put on top of my backpack and early in the morning on my way to work .
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Saturday i ve decided to finally fix the fuse box ( car was in an accident im the 5th owner ) because everything was broken ... also converted the car from wheel bolts to bullet tipped studs and nuts ( best thing ever ) .
One of my friends had a yard sale and found this gem : Clio Rs front grille for 60 quid ...
One of my friends had a yard sale and found this gem : Clio Rs front grille for 60 quid ...
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Rear subframe bushes arrived couple days ago and today i decided to put them on , i ve found out that on right side you need to drop even the subframe mount too (fuel tank is too close ) 2 nuts come loose one don t , had to remove the rear seat smash the metal that holds the bolt and use a massive plier 😁 to hold it ...done the job in 3 hours but it s not nice.
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hopgop1
ClioSport Club Member
Is that where you work? Can spot some very nice motors behind the fence.
I work as a tech for Bentley and Lamborghini
MK2 1.4 16v
Great job, looks like you're building the same car as I've basically got planned, 5 door and everything!
I'm new to clios, I'd be interested to know exactly what bits were required to swap the 172 hubs etc as that would open up suspension possibilities (which I'm guessing is why youve done it?)
Great job on the intake, do you notice a big improvement?
I'm new to clios, I'd be interested to know exactly what bits were required to swap the 172 hubs etc as that would open up suspension possibilities (which I'm guessing is why youve done it?)
Great job on the intake, do you notice a big improvement?
On my car im using 172 hub carrier but with my clio 1.4 16v hubs and driveshafts , i didn t go for the clio sport hub because i can t find driveshafts and they are very expensive to buy as new also i know the difference in stock engine subframe vs cliosport subframe im still thinking to modify my subframe or source a second hand one and put those washers like you did , reason i ve done all of this is because i wanted to improve the handling of it ( i ve spun the car couple times driving at the limit ) the car is wider now ( 1 cm spacer on each side at the rear between the hub and the subframe ) on top of what the rear disk conversion done .
List of parts : front lower wishbones from 172 , antiroll bar from megane 1 or 2 i think ...( good friend give it to me for free ) , 172 front hub carriers ( my GAZ suspension has the 54mm hole pattern ) 172 front calipers and for the rear i got caliper carriers ,calipers ,rear disks ,rear disks studs from 172 but with new bolts but i ve used my rear subframe .
Intake part is more interesting , yes it revvs more easily , sound wise sounds like and e30 m3 with itbs ( i ve been asked on the street if i have itbs ) if i have more bhp , yes i can outrun a stock 1.6 16v clio ( i have intake , cams ,throttle body and injectors from twingo rs ) fuel consumption dropped ( motorway , in town and mixed ) i have a twingo rs engine coming next week and im going to strip it and put the internalls on k4m spare block that i got and do the complete 1.6 16v conversion for more bhp , i will be happy at the end if i get 133 bhp same as twingo rs or more ...
Martin_172
ClioSport Club Member
Really cool project, what did you do when fitting the cams with regards to the VVT system on the 133 cams? Dephaser etc?
For the intake cam i blocked the oil holes for vvt so no dephaser and i had to cut a square shape cam lobe that a sensor used to read on the twingo rs ( k4J and k4M are the same except k4M has a longer stroke the rest is identical ) hopefully with the engine that im going to build and the mapping is going to improve the low end torque that is missing from running one with a dephaser , if im above 4000 rpm and try to overtake a vehicle i don t drop a gear , but if im below 4000 i need to drop a gear and dissapear...
Christmas arrived early , bone stock twingo rs engine with low mileage , last week went out and laser cut one piece of exhaust flange and welded flexi pipe to match the exhaust manifold from k-tec . I need to figure out what parts i can keep to put them in the dacia engine block .
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Striped the twingo engine and saved the pistons with conrods , crankshaft and some small bits , bought a new set of big end and conrod set of bearings and piston rings hopefully they arrive by thursday so i close the engine block and deal with the the rest .
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Also i ve finished the new engine and next week i will try to install it and see how it goes .
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Hi, how are you? Greetings from Spain!
I've seen your content about transforming your Clio 1.4 by adding Twingo 133 upgrades. My car is currently used for endurance racing (it's already completed four 6-hour races without any issues).
It currently has the catalytic converter removed, a straight exhaust with a muffler, and I've upgraded the intake. But I saw the Twingo 133 manifold and I have some questions about the throttle body, as some electrical wiring needs to be modified (for example, by buying the butterfly valve from an bmw E46 318).
For now, I won't make any further upgrades like to the gearbox because it's working well, and the clutch is holding up well to rough treatment. I also read that installing the flywheel from a Dacia Logan 1.6 8v or a Renault Megane 1.6 8v would improve performance.
The brake upgrades include 280mm discs with calipers from a Peugeot 307 110 HDI, and the air conditioning compressor was removed by purchasing a Renault bracket (without air conditioning) to reduce weight.
Cheers!
I've seen your content about transforming your Clio 1.4 by adding Twingo 133 upgrades. My car is currently used for endurance racing (it's already completed four 6-hour races without any issues).
It currently has the catalytic converter removed, a straight exhaust with a muffler, and I've upgraded the intake. But I saw the Twingo 133 manifold and I have some questions about the throttle body, as some electrical wiring needs to be modified (for example, by buying the butterfly valve from an bmw E46 318).
For now, I won't make any further upgrades like to the gearbox because it's working well, and the clutch is holding up well to rough treatment. I also read that installing the flywheel from a Dacia Logan 1.6 8v or a Renault Megane 1.6 8v would improve performance.
The brake upgrades include 280mm discs with calipers from a Peugeot 307 110 HDI, and the air conditioning compressor was removed by purchasing a Renault bracket (without air conditioning) to reduce weight.
Cheers!
Hello mate , regarding twingo rs intake you also need the throttle body , upper and lower part of manifold and injectors from twingo rs and i have a sheet on how to do the wires and it takes 10 minutes , the electrical plug is used on VAG group ( i got the part number for that too ) regarding clutch there s options from Dacia like step higher in diameter like 200mm or 220 mm ( i will research on that and get back to you ) regarding twingo rs cams they do improve the clio engine but you need a tune otherwise you suffer under 3500 rpm and also need improvement on oil passages so you don t suffer with oil starvation like me ...
I went Clio Sport on all mechanical bits because it easy , cheap and bolts down easily and it improves the handling quite alot .
El colector (8200699284) es bastante difícil de encontrar, y un cuerpo de acelerador Twingo es aún más difícil de conseguir.
Según tengo entendido, el cuerpo del acelerador del BMW e46 318i, número de pieza 13541439224, es el mismo; la única diferencia es el tipo de conector.
¿Es necesaria alguna calibración en el cuerpo del acelerador después de reemplazarlo?
Junta de colector metálica, número de pieza Renault: 8200808363 o AJUSA 13260400
Respecto a los inyectores, algunas personas han instalado los del motor F4R.
Si pudieras proporcionarme el diagrama de cableado y el tipo de conector VAG a usar, sería de gran ayuda. Los únicos datos de Autodata que tengo son los diagramas de Renault.
¡¡¡Gracias por todo!!!
Según tengo entendido, el cuerpo del acelerador del BMW e46 318i, número de pieza 13541439224, es el mismo; la única diferencia es el tipo de conector.
¿Es necesaria alguna calibración en el cuerpo del acelerador después de reemplazarlo?
Junta de colector metálica, número de pieza Renault: 8200808363 o AJUSA 13260400
Respecto a los inyectores, algunas personas han instalado los del motor F4R.
Si pudieras proporcionarme el diagrama de cableado y el tipo de conector VAG a usar, sería de gran ayuda. Los únicos datos de Autodata que tengo son los diagramas de Renault.
¡¡¡Gracias por todo!!!
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If you want to instal the twingo rs intake you need from renault modus that metal cap that is part of oil breathing system on the rocker cover also your throttle body will be on the side , tomorrow i will drop you with some part numbers and those pics on how to do the wires for the throttle body and i didn t needed any adaption , plug qnd play .
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Perfect, thank you very much!
The part numbers needed for this adaptation will be a great help!
I think I read that the vacuum lines for the brake booster and the canister also require some adaptation... In my case, the oil vapor line is exposed to the air with a small motorcycle filter since I removed the air filter box.
If I install Twingo RS133 injectors, is it necessary to calibrate the engine electronics, or is it acceptable?
I'm planning to do some engine electronic tuning later on.
My next endurance race is in April and the one after that in November, so it would be best to do these modifications during those months.
The part numbers needed for this adaptation will be a great help!
I think I read that the vacuum lines for the brake booster and the canister also require some adaptation... In my case, the oil vapor line is exposed to the air with a small motorcycle filter since I removed the air filter box.
If I install Twingo RS133 injectors, is it necessary to calibrate the engine electronics, or is it acceptable?
I'm planning to do some engine electronic tuning later on.
My next endurance race is in April and the one after that in November, so it would be best to do these modifications during those months.
For the brake booster you need one of the ends modified , im using the oil vapours in my car and i ve manufactured a pipe ( second pic ) you don t need to calibrate the engine ecu if you put those injectors im running standard 1.4 16v software with all of these mods , it adapts it self but if you tune it later it will be ok , i ve done 6000 km with this mods and it revs easily to 6000 rpm ...
Perhaps when I have to change the clutch, I'll put in the flywheel from the 1.6 8v (they say it's lighter, so it'll gain a bit more speed). The acceleration in 2nd and 3rd gear on this track wasn't too bad, and in the corners I can keep up with a Peugeot 206 GTI or a Golf MK3 GTI. But on the straights, it's where it suffers in 4th gear, which needs a bit more punch.
However, I haven't done any more endurance races with the catalytic converter removed and the new custom intake. It's sure to have gained in mid-range and high revs, plus I've reduced the weight by removing more unnecessary components (that video is from April 2024; I didn't race last year).
However, I haven't done any more endurance races with the catalytic converter removed and the new custom intake. It's sure to have gained in mid-range and high revs, plus I've reduced the weight by removing more unnecessary components (that video is from April 2024; I didn't race last year).
Regarding the change process, they recommended I install this.
During some hard braking in 3rd gear, it shifts into neutral. It doesn't always happen, and it usually coincides with when I've already been enduring for 4 hours.
The gear shift mount is new, but I'm aware that I need an improvement there to reduce the movement.
During some hard braking in 3rd gear, it shifts into neutral. It doesn't always happen, and it usually coincides with when I've already been enduring for 4 hours.
The gear shift mount is new, but I'm aware that I need an improvement there to reduce the movement.
I have that one with yellow line , there s different colours for them , if i remember but im not 100% sure my ones have more then 2 holes but i can only test this only when i put the new engine in my car ... i don t know if it good or bad but my fuel consumption dropped town wise and also on the motorway
