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A Few Questions





Hi, Im thinking of fitting an amp to my 172 and was thinking of doing it myself, question is does the standard head unit have RCAs out? Or do I need to use the speaker out wires? Also, what would be the best way to route my speaker/power/remote/RCA if my amp is mounted on the back of the back seat? Oh, and does the standard fronts and tweeters have crossovers? Any advise would be great, thanks!
 


mr black clio.
no the head unit does not have rcas just speaker leads.advce change your head unit! easier in the long run.
also what amp are you using,because if its small enough(and you hadnt thought of it yet)stick it under your seat.no damage from crap in the boot,shorter runs of cable and no one can see it.the cables down from the head unit under the center consule and out of the carpet join under the seat.as far as i can tell there where no crossovers anywhere when i replaced my front end.
hope this helps.
Grant
 


Thanks Grant, I already have the amp but it would be tight under the seat, I dont use my boot much because the strut brace is in the way anyway, which will protect the amp and cap! About the head unit, does it come out easily? anything I should look out for? Ill be replacing all speaker cables but not the head unit (yet) as I wanna keep my changer and controls/display working. Might upgrade later when I have spare cash!
 


I replaced everything except the head unit/changer. the only crossover on the original speakers is a small capacitor on the back of the tweeter there is nothing in the wires or hidden under the dash! Good luck on replacing all the wires especially in the doors. I had a look and it was going to be a right pain to replace everything.
 


no problem,spend many hours scratching my head on the drive-way sorting these things out.
if you have the right "keys" (if you havnt use four small allen keys)in the four holes in the stereo and give it a good pull(missus).
your going to have fun replacing the door wires! (just ask towser)the hard part is replacing the spade terminals in the male/female connector(in side rubber boot).there a funny size (ie:length) and i have yet to find some the same(6 months).my renault dealer was about as helpful as bucket with a hole in it!if you do find some.TELL ME!

Ive got a blaupunkt dallas md 70 unit and changer which works with the remote control and display(with the right interconnection lead).
but even if you use any brand of head unit, the clock and temp display still works with ignition on.

what r/strut brace have you got and does it do what it says on the box?
GRANT
any more Qs just ask.
 


I was wondering what the 4 holes were for, must be a very small allen key.
So would it be better not to touch the door speaker wires?
I have a OMP R/strut Brace and it does make a difference while cornering and the rear doesnt feel as "loose" (I also have lowered springs)
 


Entirely up to you about the door wires but I left them cause it was going to be one f**k of a hassle and the difference in quality in my opinion was not worth it.
 


OK, I bought all the Phenix Gold speaker/power/MTX Comp. RCA Cables today and also 1 in line fusebox (waterproof) for the power cable near the batt. and a splitter fuse box for the rear near the amp. and a load of goldplated connectors and stuff. Instead of replacing the speaker wires Im gonna run new cables to speakers. COSTED ME A BLOODY BOMB!!!
 


hey black clio, as towser said "best of luck". if you succeed show me how!
sounds like you have gone the hole hog.thats good.do it right the first time its cheaper.
remember to keep the rcas and the power line as far apart as possible.less interference.
also fit your fuse within 10-12 inches of the batt.i made up a black perspex panel shaped to fit around the batt and secured by the terminals.
if you want any pics give me your e-mail and ill send them.
one pic says a thousand swords.
grant
 


AAAHHHH,that might explain it.
so your not wrong when you said it cost you a bloody bomb then?
your near me then, im in perth western aus.but as i say,i will do some photos @ weekend if not raining.
Grant
 


Oh, what a surprise, youre in Perth??? Im Aussie too, from Melbourne!!!
Tell me, how does your 172 run in Summer? Does it overheat?
Another thing, I was planning to mount the amp, cap and fuse box in a custom box made from MDF, and then mount the whole thing on the back seat, question is I found out yesterday the back of the backseats are soft and floppy ;(( so theres nothing to mount the amp box to? any ideas?
 


been through one summer seasi=on so far with no problems yet.needle always sits in the middle.but im looking at fitting a oil cooler,demon tweeks do the sandwich plate with thermostat for 32 quid.that will help with overheating.

no ideas about box,unless you take the seat bases and seatbelt mounts out and bolt it to these.(bases just fold forward and pull away from hinges).

have sent photos to your email address but got bounced back,any ideas?

im at Pcowboyrusher@bigpond.com.au.
 


hi there, I got the pics no problems, Im getting a new boot floor made out of MDF to mount my amp/cap/fusebox and the sub Im planning to put where the spare tyre is, with the sub facing up (dont worry, Itll be protected) and the boot space will remain more or less the same.
 


thats good.how many copies did you get?
did they help?
im asuming your taking out the spare?
fitting your sub in the spare wheel well is a really good idea,will give you good strong bass.did this with my 90 golf gti and it worked well.but remember to carry a can of tyre-weld(or similar product) in the glove box for that puncture!
Grant
 


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